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The Hasselblad H5D 50C WiFi vs. The Phase One XF IQ350

03.31.16

Updated on April 5, 2016: After getting feedback from a wide variety of sources I have added some corrections and updates to this review. These updates are notated with bold text at the beginning of the update. The updates are noted in the Autofocus, User Interface, Flash Sync and Software sections of this comparison. Thanks to everyone for...

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Equipment Review: The Hasselblad H5D 50c WiFi » Michael Clark PhotographyMarch 31, 2016 - 1:48 pm
[…] « Winter 2016 NewsletterThe Hasselblad H5D 50C WiFi vs. The Phase One XF IQ350 » […]
Tony BonannoMarch 31, 2016 - 2:53 pm
Wow Michael, had no idea about how bad the Phase One AF was. AF is VERY important and add the price differential, it is a no-brainer.. Thanks for the very comprehensive review.

Tony Bonanno
DougApril 1, 2016 - 7:38 am
So I’ve been shooting h5x and credo 40 for about a year and a half, and while k have never shot a cmos back, I agree on all fronts wth what you’ve written. I previously had an older h1 and the af on that was awful – true focus works amazingly well, and I’m probably in the range you are with focus 75-80%. The market for used lenses was a huge factor for me, as I own four lenses but bought zero new.
Tony BonannoApril 2, 2016 - 6:09 pm
Michael,

Any chance the Phase One could have been defective ??

Tony
Michael ClarkApril 2, 2016 - 6:52 pm
Tony – I am pretty sure it was fine. Several other photographers have said the AF on the XF was pretty useless.
Don McPheeApril 3, 2016 - 3:04 pm
Michael, Good review. You had commented about sync speeds on the XF and stated the 35LS sync speed was found to sync only to1/100. Is that correct? My 35 LS is actually in, just need to pay for it and I find that info surprising.
I use Broncolor RFS 2.1 remotes and they have a very fast transmit time and I easily sync to 1/1600 on the Schneider 55,80 & 110LS with no issue at all. I have also used Profoto ( built in transmitter )with no issues. Phase from what I understand is working on additional Profoto features on the menu, “Fast mode” is one of them I understand which speeds up the transmitter “transmit time” to take full advantage of 1/1600 sync speed. Pocket Wizard transmitters must be set to TX only and receivers must be set to HSR mode in order to work properly with HSS. Have you received any other correspondence from other pros regarding A/F or lack of A/f accuracy?

Don
Michael ClarkApril 3, 2016 - 3:39 pm
Don – Thanks. I look forward to hearing your experiences with the new lenses and the flash sync speeds. To clarify, the lenses that were in questions with eh 1/1600th sec flash sync speed were the new larger “blue line” lenses.

As for feedback on the Phase One XF’s AF abilities, as I stated in the article everyone using the XF that I talked to before posting the review considered the AF extremely poor on the XF. There is a health conversation going on in the Forum’s on Luminous-Landscape and GetDPI about this review and comparison. Some say the AF is great and serves them well others say they have had quite a few issues with it.
Tom CunninghamApril 5, 2016 - 6:00 am
Interesting stuff! I moved from Hasselblad to a Phase One XF last December. I ordered the 80MP CCD back, but by the time it shipped the 100MP CMOS back was also available, so I paid a discounted upgrade price and went for broke! My old H3D II was getting on for eight years old, and whilst still amazingly good, had started showing signs of wear. On top of that my fighting lens, the 35-90 locked up when the internal focus ring failed. It came back after $1500 holiday but still wasn’t right – soft on the righthand side. This was one of the reasons I chose the XF – Schneider-Kreuznach. I understand they’re optically comparable with Hasselblad’s, but I just felt the build quality was a bit better. With the Phase One XF and back it’s been so far, so good. I haven’t experienced any issues with autofocus. It’s probably done 30 or so shoots with no lock up. Yes, it’s a bit heavy handheld!! I shoot a hell of a lot of stuff on a tripod or high hat with the mirror up, so love the time delay options and seismograph. I’d developed a knack with the H3D of knowing when images were sharp (you couldn’t always tell from the preview!), but with the XF the screen is amazing. There’s also the promise that of this thing fails, they’ll ship a replacement to me – anywhere in the world. To give Phase One their due, the XF is still being developed. Yesterday I was sat reading about the automatic focus stacking capabilities which comes with the latest update, as does time lapse. The Phase will be more expensive than the Hasselblad (all day long) but no one ever pays the published price – inc. me!
murrayApril 5, 2016 - 6:51 am
Wow you really didn’t get on with the XF did you?

I wrote a review of the XF + IQ350 in July 2015 (on my website) and didn’t experience any of the issues you describe.

One of the lenses I had was the new blue ring 35mm which I would agree is a substantial piece of glass but I loved using it. I wouldn’t describe it as excessively heavy but the camera body weight has increased because of the inclusion of a glass prism.

The problems you experienced with the new focusing system are difficult to explain but in the couple of weeks I had the camera focussing was never an issue.

I used Pocket Wizards with Elinchrom heads in the studio and they fired every time without issue. I also use a Broncolor Move kit and they worked fine on location.

One of the strengths of the Phase One / Capture One software is Capture Pilot and the ability to push images to an iPad / iPhone directly from the IQ back by using the built in wi-fi transmitter. As you say Capture One Pro is way ahead of Phocus or LR and working tethered with an XF / IQ3 is just so easy.

There is no doubt that the H5D is an excellent camera and at the price point in December represented excellent value. The handgrip LCD and the LCD on the back are as you say awful and unworthy of the camera. The price reduction in my opinion was probably more about shifting old stock than trying to bring people into MF. Lenses are also currently on offer suggesting that a major overhaul of the product range may be coming on April 7th.

As I don’t own either I look forward to seeing how Hasselblad respond to the XF system.
Frank RistauApril 5, 2016 - 8:43 am
Michael, thanks for the review. Half a year ago I was considering changing my Contax 645 with a Leaf Aptus 7 II-back to a H5D 50c. Comming from Nikon fullfomat I was through with the one AF-point, low ISO and bad display of the CCD-back. At that time the price for the H5 was at € 25K or so. I tried it against the Pentax 645 Z, you have mentioned too. Doing this I found out, that the Z has a very well functioning AF-System, even in low-light-situations and Ricoh advanced the sensor so Hi-ISO above 1000 are no problem at all. The handling and the display are like DSLRs. The only thing which I didn´t like was the flash-sync-time of 1/125. But as you wrote: I can use a fullformat DSLR with highspeed-sync if needed. So I bought a used Z and then several FA 645 Lenses. Now I am having a digital medium-format system, with 35mm, 55mm, 75mm, 120mm macro, 150mm, 200mm, 45-85mm and 80-160mm-lenses and the overall best medium format camera for much less than $ 14.500,00. Even new, the whole system with the newest lenses (25, 35, 90mm) would be less than the H5 without any ore with only one lens. So I think, that it is ridicoulous to pay 20 or 30 or even 40 to 60 grands for camera-systems with almost no AF bad displays and bad ISO. I want more than 70% percent and for sure more than 10% sharp images. I hope you will like your Hassi instead and have a lot of fun with it!
Michael ClarkApril 5, 2016 - 8:47 am
Thanks for the comments Frank. Great info there….good to hear you haven’t had any AF issues. It seems like there is a mix of issues.
VincentApril 5, 2016 - 9:27 am
Thanks you so much for this awesome post: this is the review I have been waiting for for a long time. Precise, informative, you cover every aspect for both cameras. Definitely sharing your post with friends photographers! Cheers.
Jeffery SalterApril 5, 2016 - 9:41 am
How many photographers who own XF cameras told you they had focus problems? You said “everyone” you didn’t call me nor any of my numerous professional colleagues who shoot with the camera.
You shot with the camera for one day? I would hardly consider that enough time to get use to the camera and learn how to operate it. Why didn’t you ask one of the photographers who own the XF to shoot the alongside you? Are you going to show us the test photos you shot?
Michael ClarkApril 5, 2016 - 10:08 am
Jeffery – As I said in the comparison, those photographers I talked with said they had AF issues. I didn’t say I had talked to every XF owner. Those photographers that I talked to that own an XF live in other States and are working pros so it is tough to get together and borrow their camera while they are traveling non-stop. I won’t be posting comparison images as I did not have both cameras at the same time so I think it is unfair to both cameras to post comparison images of different scenes – aside from the noise test. This is just my experiences and thoughts on the two cameras.
62. ?To MF or not חלק ב׳ – Camera & Photo TechnologyApril 5, 2016 - 12:35 pm
[…] 5.4.16: השוואה מענינת בין Hasselblad H5D 50C WiFi לבין PhaseOne XF […]
Andrew PaquetteApril 7, 2016 - 9:39 am
I’ve been shooting with the DF+ and a IQ250 back for about a year with LS lenses. The autofocus performance I’ve seen is decent in the sense that it gets close, but it is not perfect often enough that I usually double-check the focus. In practice this means that is spot-on about half of the time, but I don’t like trusting that any given shot is in perfect focus. This is why I try to shoot tethered whenever possible and use AF to get approximate focus. If it proves to be soft in Capture One, I make small MF adjustments until it is perfect. Once this is dealt with, the model can start posing/acting in earnest. It takes several minutes to check this, and it has to be re-checked after every significant shot or if the model moves off their mark. Having said all this, I am used to MF on DSLR cameras (Zeiss on Nikon) so this doesn’t bother me much.
AP
LawrenceApril 21, 2016 - 1:49 pm
I attended the launch party for the H6D series in NYC. They went to great lengths to specify that the old H lenses cannot be upgraded with the new shutters. They found that they couldn’t manufacture enough shutters to build the new lenses and upgrade all the old ones. The NYC staff had just gotten their hands on the h6D just a few days before the event, so a lot of the information was new to them. I think it would probably be wise to wait to know more before expecting the opportunity to upgrade.
Michael ClarkApril 21, 2016 - 2:42 pm
Lawrence – I was told they could by several Hasselblad reps and online directly from Hasselblad. I guess we will see here at some point. It won’t matter to me as I have an H5D and won’t be upgrading anytime soon.
Clash of the Titans … | Ottoman•PhotographyApril 23, 2016 - 10:02 am
[…] The Hasselblad H5D 50C WiFi vs. The Phase One XF IQ350 […]
cory whiteJuly 24, 2016 - 7:32 pm
Ive shot with both of thee cameras extensively I waited with baited breathe for the XF system and was willing to part with nearly 60k AUS. After a few test rentals and a 10 day shoot around Australia i soon realised the flaws of this new XF system. the focus is terrible. I have 20/20 vision and i could not get a frame sharp without engaging live view and focussing then shooting. This does not work out when you’re trying to capture candid and real time images.It forced me onto a tripod, and that killed the fluidity of the shoot. I previously had remembered being on a beach in wales, in driving rain and wind on a cloudy low light day chasing the one and only Bear Grylls around on the older mamiya df+ body with the 1q140 back if i remember correctly and not even thinking about the autofocus. Nearly every shot was tack sharp. essentially they have failed by not waiting for a multi spot focus system. Its a huge let down. I now just rent a H5x with an iq350 back as a work around as true focus performs really well. I hope this helps some people out there to not feel like they are fools because they cant get a pin sharp shot out of the XF without engaging live view which is a ridiculous work around.
Michael ClarkJuly 24, 2016 - 8:44 pm
Cory – Glad to hear I wasn’t the only onto had AF issues with the Phase One XF. I have found the Hasselblad H5D AF to be quite accurate and I trust it implicitly without having to use Live View or have it tethered. Thanks for your insight!
Andrew PaquetteOctober 8, 2016 - 7:16 am
Hello Michael,
Since I left my last comment, I upgraded to the Phase One XF with the IQ3-100 back (XF-100). Because of your review here, I seriously considered the equivalent Hasselblad instead. From your review, I liked the idea of getting 1) a lower price, 2) better AF, 3) better reliability. These were concerns because the Phase One gear is very expensive, I did not trust autu focus on moving subjects, and I had my shutter tangle itself on a shoot, forcing me to use a D800 I had as a backup.

That said, when I got the actual quote for the Hasselblad it was actually more than the XF-100. This was partly because I would have had to replace my lenses, but even if that part of the quote was removed, it was still more expensive. This was due to the upgrade value my Phase One dealer was willing to give me. When I mentioned that to the Hasselblad dealer, he offered to give me a healthy competitive trade-in discount if I bought the H6-100. At this point, the price was almost exactly equal, not the $10k less I was expecting. Therefore, price was not an advantage.

The AF issue bugged me a bit because I like to shoot sports when I get the chance and it is very difficult to get anything in focus with fast moving athletes at close range. My D800 can do it fairly reliably, but the lenses (even my Zeiss Otus) aren’t as sharp as the Schneider lenses on the Phase One system, and the lower resolution and color depth are unsatisfying. On this subject, I was willing to give Phase One the benefit of the doubt on the basis of positive reviews I’d read of the updated honeybee focus system.

I had also read that the XF was much stronger reliability-wise than the DF+, which made me feel better about it. Also, I had read reports from disgruntled Hasselblad users that mirrored DeCohen-Lara’s tirade against Phase One. My own experience with the DF+ was that it had one serious problem: the shutter failure mentioned earlier, and then quite a few lockups that were solved in a minute or so by popping out the batteries and starting it up again. Since I have the same problem on my D800 (with the same solution) when using the Zeiss 15mm distagon, this didn’t bother me much. On the whole, this was a toss-up and I think may come down to manufacturing tolerances of individual cameras from both companies. I have used a loaner from Phase One twice (the other time was my fault for getting sand in the trigger when shooting on some dunes) and both times it was relatively painless.

There were two new factors added to the mix with the new 100MP Hasselblad: 1/2000s flash sync and 4k video. I liked the idea of both, but realistically didn’t expect to shoot video, and wasn’t sure that the difference between 1/1600s and 1/2000s sync was a deal-breaker.

What finally decided me was the color of the Phase One system. Every example photo I’ve seen from the H6-100 has color that I like less than the color used to demonstrate the XF-100. It may be the choice of images or photographers rather than the brilliant sensor (which is the same anyway), but it seemed to me possible that the difference in image processors (assuming that these are indeed different) or the way the Phase One interprets the signal from the sensor yields color more to my liking. This was not a small difference to me, because it is very clear in the images I was comparing, then confirmed when I demo’ed a unit over the summer. Though not my choice, I used it to shoot a basketball game (I wanted to use it on a studio portrait, but scheduling forced me to go with the game instead). So there I was with a 150mm blue ring Schneider mounted on an XF-100 shooting handheld from the foul line of some streetball championships. They wouldn’t let me use the strobes I brought (I am normally allowed to use these, but not at NBB games) so I had to shoot the whole day at between 1600-6400 ISO. I was not expecting great results given these conditions, but the color was amazing to look at and the ISO less of a problem than expected.

At this point I went for the XF-100, but admit that I did not demo the H6-100, though I had tentatively agreed to attend a workshop where I could have used one for a few hours. In the end it came down to color. For all I know this is more about the software on the camera than any of the mechanical details, but wherever it is coming from, I consistently prefer Phase One color to Hasselblad. They are both great, but the look is different.
Andrew PaquetteOctober 8, 2016 - 7:24 am
I forgot to mention in my last post that I am quite enjoying the XF-100, primarily for the color and detail. Auto focus is a problem though, so I find myself using AF to get an approximate focus and then manually adjust from there. I shot an equestrian event with the camera and got some really amazing action shots, but then when shooting a bicycle race had a much harder time because the cyclists were moving much faster than the horses and I was much closer. That said, the colors are, again, superb. Also, using it for a sporting event is not done with the goal of recording the event–a Nikon or Canon would be fine for that–but to get one or two high quality action shots.

On a normal tethered shoot on location or in a studio, it works fine and I don’t worry about the AF because MF only takes a couple of minutes to perfect and after that no shots are lost.

AP
Michael ClarkOctober 8, 2016 - 8:57 am
I found the color to be better with the Hasselblad system than the Phase One, but as you say, that is just a matter of taste. They both are incredible cameras. And since you already had a Phase One system switching is always a bit more costly. If you were starting from scratch, the Hasselblad would have saved you $15K USD. Either way, it doesn’t matter if you are happy with what you got.
Michael ClarkOctober 8, 2016 - 8:59 am
Wow, that admission that the AF is so horrible you use it to get close then use manual focus is very telling. I can’t imagine buying a $48,000 USD camera set up and it can’t achieve accurate focus on a stationary subject. I have been shooting a ton of sports and all manner of subjects with the Hasselblad and the AF is incredibly good. Sure it can’t track moving subjects, but it can focus on whatever I point it at extremely accurately.
BarryNovember 19, 2016 - 7:27 pm
Michael

Great review better than maybe the other 20-30 on the internet.
Its seems most people reviewers don’t actual take the time to shoot any images process the files and compare like you did. If you know of any reviews that get into the software menu items and describe the functions in detail comparing the use of a particular setting(s) with real world shooting conditions you could pass the link on to me it would be great. I find Hasselblads explanations extremely limited, if they know the capabilities of the functions why don’t they explain them in plain words showing examples of why and how.

I have the 100c on order and looking forward to using it.
The things that still bother me about the camera are
The idea of integrated focus stepping has been on the “to-do-list”
Live view mode on the rear display where you can see a live view constant with auto focus.

Grip display
Higher resolution larger font size
tilt-able
sun grade LCD easy to see in bright light

Sensor Unit
Power solution for tech cam

Live histogram

Camera Body
titanium opt

Mirror up, remote release and stop down buttons relocated or to protrude farther out from body

Viewfinder

manual mode button A dedicated button to set to manual mode??

better sealing from dust

locking eyesight adjustment wheel
better eye piece hood (we have made it stronger and there is also a shorter type for eye-glass users available)

Remote shutter release

Jog stick and button w/ movable focus point
Lenses

different lens shade attachment system

180mm macro tilt shift
fast focus attachment
filter attachment system before lens shade

VR vibration reduction

tripod foot accessory for heavier lenses

Accessories

Panoramic Head with nodal points pre marked for lenses.

Better HTS- lighter/titanium, knobs that you can reach and adjust better clearance for cable release and access to mirror up, remote release and stop down buttons

Grip for left side of camera (vertical shooting)

One piece rain cover

wireless remote shutter release

sensor cleaning kit

lightening trigger

Hasselblad backpack (for field use not storage) with fitted section for camera body set up with RSS bracket and lens for field use.
Tron75March 19, 2017 - 4:08 pm
Phase or Hasselblad; I shopped these systems early last year at a tradeshow (March 2016). They were just an aisle apart and I spent much of my tradeshow time hopping back and forth, comparing, analyzing, and focusing on the same beige wall with both cameras. Well it was the XF and the H5D, but I had a clear winner, Hasselblad. This would be my first Medium format camera after using Canon for 25 years. I preordered the H6D 100c the following month.

At that moment, I crowned the Hasselblad in my mind, because of how much more comfortable and compact the H5D body felt. Its faster autofocus was noticeable over the Phase XF body which was hunting and unsure. The XF’s awkward and heavy design, including the back autofocus button, made my hand sore after just minutes of use.

I used the H6D 50c for 5 months (June to October 2016) while waiting for my 100c order. My Hasselblad experience was like death from 1000 cuts. It constantly had digital back errors and other camera errors while shooting, which I had to remove the battery to reset, and one time my CF card corrupted. The 24mm and 28mm lens are cropped sensor lens that need a ton of correction to un-bubble them (Phocus does automatically), which may stretch parts of the image. The H6D 100c does not have a proper wide. The 35mm lens is old and has bad optics. The ipad app presented vertically shot images horizontal. The Phocus software is painfully slow. Hasselblad support did not have a PC, and was not able to help me after a Windows update did not recognize Hasselblad formatted cards. I returned the H6D system after contacting Hasselblad’s CEO. A few weeks later, the CEO departed, and the company reportedly is now owned by DJI in China.

A few weeks ago I bought a Phase One IQ3 50 kit with an 80mm and 35mm blue ring lenses. I did not want the 100mp at this point as I felt like I just got out of a bad relationship. I’m just now putting my toes back in the water. So far, I rate my Phase experience at 90 points out of 100. The Phase XF is heavier than the H6D. XF lenses are gear driven but I prefer the Hasselblad’s belt system on lenses as I like to rack out my focus, then re-autofocus. Not a big deal. The XF autofocus hunts more than H6D. Autofocus, in low light back focuses sometimes.

On the plus side, my XF camera has not had one error while shooting. I like how thoughtful the various features are on the XF body and back. One of my early favorites is the seismograph. I press the shutter button and the camera lifts the mirror and waits for any shaking to stop before firing. I can see the image better on the IQ3 50 back compared to the H6D back. I like the XF’s 2 battery design. I was never comfortable with the H6D’s battery/grip design as I worried the grip may come off. The XF grip does not come off. The 35 and 80mm lenses are super sharp and vibrant.

Capture One 10 is super-fast on my i7 8-core gtx1080 system. The same system running Phocus made me wait for thumbnails to be rendered, then I would view one large image, wait, then wait again when going back to the same thumbnails to render again. Phocus is a disaster. When you buy Hasselblad or Phase, you are also buying their proprietary darkroom. When I bought HB, I just didn’t think Phocus could be that bad.

To sum it up, I’m glad I don’t own the H6D anymore. My first month with the Phase system, camera and software, makes me excited about photography again. For the first time, I have confidence in a medium format system. Cheers,
Matthew BrushMay 19, 2018 - 9:39 pm
I’ve owned both systems and have quite a bit of experience on commercial jobs with them both.

Both systems have their drawbacks. It’s like comparing a Ferrari and a Porsche. They’re both super high performance machines, and will likely need service from time to time. DSLR’S = HONDA VS TOYOTA. Dependable / Reliable / and do the job just ok

In terms of support:

Phase One hands down has been much easier to work with than Hasselblad. Turn around times on repairs much quicker, loaners next day, troubleshooting on the phone, easy. There’s just much more support out there.

Hasselblad Phocus vs Capture One =. No Brainer. Capture One is industry standard. I tech and shoot full-time and NO ONE uses Phocus on set. If there’s a Hasselblad on set it’s almost always with a Phase back on it, and for good reasons.

Lightroom is slow as molasses an you can’t shoot with a tech and have clients watching images come in with how slow that is. Not possible, it least to my standards.

Sync: Phase 1/1600th I get with all my lenses no problem. This is with Profoto built in remote in my XF. With pocket wizard plus 2’s I’ve gotten 1/1000 all the time. No issues here. The benefit of the Phase system is that you have a focal plane shutter. I can shoot outside, freeze action with the sun! Hasselblad, well good luck. You can only use a leaf shutter lens, and if you don’t have the newer Orange dot lenses, you are limited to 1/800th of a second. In full sun you’re having to stop down which sucks. Also 1/800th on medium format isn’t much at all. You need every ounce of shutter speed you can get, especially freezing action hand held on location (which is what I do quite a bit of and I know Michael does too).

Image quality: Both are awesome and if you only had one, you wouldn’t even scrutinize it or care. your clients won’t know the difference either. They can already barely see the difference between DSLR and MF. The more educated ones can, but they know what to look for. For me it’s just simply having a more prestigious tool to bring out on set, and of course the benefit is delivering much better image quality than a large portion of commercial photographers out there.

Focusing: Yes the XF can hunt, but so can the hassy. I have great success rate with focus. Michael not sure what you were testing or if you camera was set to “average” or “spot” focus, or if was set to “single” or “continuous”. Those all factor into how it focuses, but you may have had just an early camera or a bad unit.

I’m nailing it least 70% of focus with moving objects, and in studio I’m closer to 80%. Of course, if you’re shooting at f4 and wider, this can easily be a problem when the XF is set to “average”

The fact that DJI owns Hasselblad is kinda weird to me. They must have needed money badly to go that route.

BTW, if you want fast focus on an MF camera, get the FUJI! It’s fast and shoots 3fps, and you can handhold it pretty easily because it weighs half as the hassy and XF.

However, no true fast sync due to lack of leaf shutter lenses.

Hmm, what else. Well Phase costs way too much money!!!!!! They need to figure this out quick. They also alienate other MF camera users from using their software. I think that’s just arrogance in the industry.

Oh, Battery life. Much better on Phase XF system with battery sharing. Oh and the fact that you can use a waist level finder is amazing for some applications!! AKA, walking around and street shooting with an MF camera. Kinda cool.

The fact that the same Sony chip is in 5 different MFG cameras and the pricing difference is almost $20k makes me really question whats under the hood.

Anyhow, I’ve owned both, have had a few issues with both and am currently with an XF setup. I always recommend trying both out and seeing what’s best for you. BUT I can say as a working professional photographer, you will get more support and have better overall options with your camera with Phase. Hands down.

Feel free to ask any questions.

Equipment Review: The Hasselblad H5D 50c WiFi

03.25.16

Last December, after doing some extensive testing of various medium format digital cameras, I decided to purchase the Hasselblad H5D 50c WiFi camera and three lenses. As you might suspect, this wasn’t a snap decision. It was over a year in the making. I started thinking about medium format cameras early in 2015 when I...

Show Hide 19 comments

SeanMarch 25, 2016 - 4:26 pm
Rad. Stoked to see you made the switch. MF is still king. Great lens choices and it’s nice to see that the Skyport works without issue.

Looking forward to seeing what you produce with this setup.
Ming TheinMarch 25, 2016 - 6:54 pm
Welcome to the club 🙂
Michael ClarkMarch 25, 2016 - 7:09 pm
Thanks! I enjoyed reading your blog posts about your experiences with the Hasselblad. Congrats on becoming a Hasselblad Ambassador!
Michael ClarkMarch 25, 2016 - 7:10 pm
Thanks! I enjoyed reading your blog posts about your experiences with the Hasselblad. Congrats on becoming a Hasselblad Ambassador!
Domenico RotaMarch 29, 2016 - 3:17 am
I agree, using this camera since it’s introducition without a problem or issues, before with first 50c I found a bug and Hasselblad send me a new camera in exchange!
It’s heavy, cumbersome and slow, but if IQ is important for You there’s Nothing best in the 50Mpixel reign.
The Hasselblad H5D 50C WiFi vs. The Phase One XF IQ350 » Michael Clark PhotographyMarch 31, 2016 - 1:45 pm
[…] camera systems before making any decisions. You can see my review of the H5D 50c WiFi right here on the blog. I realize there are a very small number of people out there that shoot with either of […]
PHOTOGRAPHER MagazineHasselblad VS Phase One - PHOTOGRAPHER MagazineApril 4, 2016 - 12:18 pm
[…] camera systems before making any decisions. You can see my review of the H5D 50c WiFi right here on the blog. I realize there are a very small number of people out there that shoot with either of […]
Digital Photo Pro article: Stepping up to Medium Format » Michael Clark PhotographyJuly 11, 2016 - 9:20 am
[…] medium format capture. I still use my Nikon DSLRs for the majority of my work but I have added the Hasselblad H5D 50c WiFi kit along with four lenses for those situations that don’t require wicked fast autofocus or […]
GeeJuly 12, 2016 - 11:23 pm
I found your article very helpful as I am hoping to move to medium format within the year. I know this article is old by the time I’ve come across it..but I see something rather disturbing in the images posted. The b&w that you said is sharp corner to corner and the shot with the trees that are covered with snow. There are tiny hair line dashes in the images.
I really want to see the sharpness corner to corner as you said and i noticed the reptilian in the lines. I don’t see it as much in the tree shot. Perhaps it’s because of all the white..but I found the same lines.
Maybe it’s a compression thing? Reducing a large file for web use. I’ve been looking at a lot of medium format photography online and those lines in these images stood out to me.
Your article was great, I appreciate the insight. If you can let me know what those lines are…if you don’t see them…I can certainly point them out for you if you’d like.

G.
GeeJuly 12, 2016 - 11:38 pm
*i apologize for the auto correct…ugh

*i noticed a “repetition” of horizontal lines …NOT reptilian in the lines

Please let me know..if in fact it’s a downsizing or a bit conversion that may have added those horizontal artifacts to the images. I believe I’ve noticed vertical ones as well.

Thank you in advance.
G
Michael ClarkJuly 13, 2016 - 1:53 pm
I don’t see any dashes in those images. That must have something to do with the way the images are being presented on your monitor. Hard to say not knowing what you are looking at. And these are massively lower resolution than the full res images files so it isn’t easy to tell anything online. Take it from me they are crazy sharp.
DPReview Field Test: The Nikon D5 » Michael Clark PhotographySeptember 12, 2016 - 11:40 am
[…] you can check it out on their website. Will I upgrade? That is the question. I still have another camera purchase to pay off before I buy any new cameras but at some point I will definitely be adding a new action […]
The Broketographers - BryanMarch 25, 2017 - 3:19 am
Great write-up, and ultimately what helped me make my choice as well. I just took delivery of a CPO H6D after trying out an older 645DF and IQ160 back, and even considered an H4X/H5X with the IQ160 back. Cheers!
Yoyo BuffaloJune 28, 2017 - 1:02 pm
The 100 2.2 becomes an 79mm 1.8, not 1.0
mathew MccarthyApril 19, 2020 - 11:47 am
I know this is a 4 year old post but do you still feel the same today as the day your published this article re: the H5D-50C? I’m just at the point in my photography where I can purchase a used H5d-50C (without wifi so i can put the extra $ to a lens). i did purchase a used one from hasselblad for $8000 w 4ooo clicks; and a new 80mm. any tips/tricks to using the system?
Michael ClarkApril 19, 2020 - 12:57 pm
Hasselblad makes some amazing cameras. The H5D is still a phenomenal camera in terms of image quality. It is quite slow though, which is the only downside. In the last year I have sold off my entire Hasselblad H5D 50c WiFi kit and almost all of the lenses and purchased the FUJIFILM GFX 100, which has better images quality and is a much faster, more versatile camera system for my needs. With that said, if you are a portrait or studio photographer the Hasselblad offerings are still excellent.
Simon MillerJuly 3, 2020 - 7:59 am
Just jumped in on a low miles version – I was a GFX user previously – far too complicated and just couldn’t get on with an oversized DSLR – this is magnifique – cheaper now than they used to be too – I read this post twenty eleven times before deciding
NickSeptember 20, 2023 - 9:13 am
Hi Michael, a blast from the past with this post. You wrote, “One Lens in particular, the Hasselblad HC 100mm f/2.2 medium telephoto lens (as shown above), caught my eye and had me drooling. On the H5D 50C WiFi this lens is the equivalent of an 80mm f/1.0 or so in 35mm DSLR terms.” How did you arrive at 80mm f/1.0? Wouldn’t the equivalent be 75mm f/2.8? as the H5D-50c sensor has a .75 factor compared to 35mm?
Michael ClarkSeptember 20, 2023 - 9:51 am
Nick – To get the focal length and aperture basically multiply everything by 0.78 as that is the conversion factor between this sensor and 35mm. Hence that would make the 100mm f/2.2 an 80mm f/1.7 or somewhere in there. I did get the math wrong on the aperture. In use, the images look like a wider aperture than f/1.7 because to get the same framing you stand in a different place so the bokeh seems shallower. Note that I no longer use this system and have moved onto the FUJIFILM GFX system with the 110mm f/2 and 80mm f/1.7 lenses among others.

Equipment Review: Nikon 300mm f/4E PF ED VR Lens

01.01.16

Updated February 16, 2016 – See the note at the end of this blog post about using the Nikkor 300mm f/4 PF VR lens with the TC14E III for photographing big-wave surfing and a true test of it’s autofocus capabilities. Over the last month, I have been testing out the Nikon AF-S 300mm f/4E PF...

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Peter BourneJuly 2, 2016 - 8:50 pm
Dear Michael,

Great review thanks! I recently aquired the Nikon D500 and was looking for a lens to take on my first trip to Africa. I’d previously rented the 500 f4 (Canon) for an Alaska bear trip and it was great. However, just transporting the lens around was a real pain.

I ended up buying the Nikon 80-400mm lens but on the D500 and even the D810, it didn’t seem that great. My Sigma 120-300mm f2.8, (my other option) was a little better than the 80-400mm but the Sigma is still a heavy lens.

Based partly on your review of this 300mm f4 lens, I bought one yesterday and WOW! It is incredibly sharp…probably better than the Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 (adjusted with lens dock!). Kills the 80-400mm.

I screwed on the TC1.4 III this morning and it’s still amazingly sharp!

On the D500, the autofocus flies, and doesn’t appear to be any slower with the 1.4x converter.

I took some distant shots with the 300 f4 + 1.4x converter at both max aperture (f5.6) and stopped down to f8 and there was the tiniest improvement only…barely perceptible!

Hence the D500 + Nikon 300f4 + TC1.4 III at f5.6, (630mm zoom!!) appears to be a winning combination. I don’t do birding but I’d say this would perfect for this as well.

Thanks again for all the useful information!

Cheers,

Peter
Michael ClarkJuly 3, 2016 - 2:11 pm
Thanks Peter – sounds like a great combo. Can’t wait to try that out for Surfing and other far off sports.
Sonal MalhotraJuly 16, 2016 - 12:17 am
Thank you for a wonderful review- tempted to get this lens- did you try other higher teleconvertes like the 1.6 or 2.0?
Michael ClarkJuly 17, 2016 - 10:56 am
No, the 1.7X and 2X teleconverters only work well with the Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 and 400mm f/2.8. Those teleconverters work with quite a few lenses, including this 300mm f/4, but the autofocus is quite poor.
Mathew JosephOctober 25, 2016 - 11:52 am
As a prolific bird photographer who shoots on the move, the D500 + 300 mm f/4 PF VR lens is a fantastic combination that rarely misses the shot. It travels with me everywhere I go, and has got me some great bird images. Without hesitation, I would say that this combo is the best for birds in flight than any other in existence today. I have the TC 1.4 iii, but the autofocus takes a big hit. I use this hand-held, and even the f/4 fully open is ultra sharp for a fair amount of cropping. My poor D810 stays at home along with the longer focal length (but heavier) lenses!
Nigel MorleyDecember 13, 2016 - 9:11 am
Hi Michael
A belated thanks for an excellent review with very much real-world testing which is considerably more useful than a lot of reviews. I’ve recently been shooting Otters in places like the Shetlands and Mull in Scotland and moving quickly across slippery seaweed covered rocks holding a heavy D4/500mm combination , whilst producing great results, isn’t ideal and the idea of the new 300mm with a 1.4cv at a fraction of the weight is very attractive. Ideally I’d use my D810 on it’s crop mode (for the 30-36 pixels) but as you suggest it just doesn’t handle the pixels as well as my 3 year old D4 the moment you crank up the iso (especially on tricky subjects such as those in motion or mottled colours) . I’ll be very interested in your feedback when and if you get a D500 as although it sounds ideal , a few friends of mine have found that again above about iso 1600 the noise creeps in whereas I’m regularly using my D4 (now 3 years old as well of course) at up to 4000/5000 iso with acceptable results…D810 comes into it’s own in good light/steady subjects and I can the new 300mm being a great asset there…so looks like you are the (final) catalyst for me be about £1500 out of pocket !! Great images btw, love the surf and landscapes
JakobDecember 15, 2017 - 3:37 am
Hi. Nice review. One question about this: “I have previously owned the Nikkor AF-S 200-400mm f/4 VRII lens and I have shot with previous 300mm lenses (both f/4 and f/2.8) as well as the new 80-400mm Nikkor lens. I have also shot a fair bit with my Nikkor AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 VRII and the TC-14E III 1.4x teleconverter. The image quality offered by the 300mm f/4E PF lens is equal to or better than all of these options. Even with the 1.4 teleconverter, the 300mm f/4 PF is better than these other options in terms of image quality.”

That seems to say that, in your experience, the PF yields equal or better image quality than a Nikon 300mm f2.8 ? And with a 1.4x it is better than a Nikon 300mm f2.8 with 1.4x ? Is that right? If so, that would be extremely impressive. Can you confirm that’s what you meant ?
Michael ClarkDecember 18, 2017 - 11:48 am
Jakob – Hello. I can confirm that those were my findings. I would suggest renting it for yourself and seeing what you find. BTW, I also had an older 300mm f/2.8 so that may not be true if you have a newer one.
JakesDecember 21, 2017 - 10:38 pm
I recently bought the lens after trying the 200-500. I already have the 300 f2.8 and has been my main wildlife lens for many years this is my second copy of the f2.8. I have shot thousands of images with this lens and use it with all 3 TC. Latest versions. Under the right conditions the TC’s produce great results. I bought the 300 GP f4 for it size and to use as lightweight lens when traveling and to use on a second body. Here in Africa lens flexibility is important as you mostly shoot from a fixed position in a car. This is an amazing lens. Naked lens is very sharp and focus snappy. Even with the 1.4 and 1.7 TC’s . When on safari I use my f2.8 with the TC2.0 on my D5 and f4 on D500 or swop around as needed. Fantastic lens and thanks for a great review
mattOctober 23, 2020 - 8:28 am
Thanks for this review. i’ve owned both previous 300mm f4 models. I absolutely loved my 300 f4 AF-S though it was admittedly a hefty piece of glass. Unfortunately, a recent canoe expedition gone awry along with a drybag failure leaves me looking for a replacement 300/teleconverter combo (thankfully fully insured!). This is the first review that gave me the info I need…concise and practical from a working shooter and educator like myself. I guess I’ll just need to get over the idea of shooting with such a compact size!
From colorado’s continental divide…
matt lit

2015: Year in Review

12.27.15

2015 was yet another incredible year both creatively and personally. It was also another stellar year in the business and one that had quite a few moments of recognition. I gave more talks and presentations this past year than I ever have and for companies like Nikon, Elinchrom and National Geographic. Along the way, I also...

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Elinchrom Skyport Plus HS Blog Posts on Elinchrom.com

11.14.15

Over the last few months I have been working closely with Elinchrom on marketing materials for the release of the new Skyport Plus HS transceiver and the ELB400 HS flash heads. Elinchrom flew me over to their headquarters in Lausanne, Switzerland where I was introduced to the new products, given a quick tutorial and was...

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Equipment Review: Nikon D810

05.19.15

I realize that there are hundreds of reviews of the Nikon D810 out there already. I am certainly late to the game here, but I was on the fence for a long time as to whether or not it was worth it to upgrade to the Nikon D810 from my venerable D800. If you didn’t...

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The Elinchrom ELB 400 vs. The Profoto B1 (and B2)

03.11.15

Updated May 16, 2015: See the end of this blog post for an update on the Profoto B1. I recently got a chance to see the B1s in action using High Speed Sync and I saw first hand how my assessment of these units was right on. Updated January 3, 2016: See the end of this...

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Stan OlszewskiMarch 11, 2015 - 3:05 am
Nicely written article, Michael. I am a current owner of the Quadras and older Lead Gel batteries. I love the packs, power, weight (lack their of), and reliability, but my only problem is my replacement (3 months old) Lead Gel batteries only last about 80 full power pops in Fast Recycle, then they kick into Slow Recycle mode.

Would moving up to the Lithium batteries change this performance (saving me lots of money)? Does the new ELB 400 prevent the pack from automatically switching into Slow Recycle mode?

Thanks for your help in advance.
Bernard van DierendonckMarch 11, 2015 - 4:43 am
Dear Michael

thanks a lot for your comparison! It’s a relief to see that using the Quadras is still one of the better options in the market. I started to feel uncertain after all the hype around the B1s. Aren’t they also very top heavy on a light stand? Wouldn’t they tip over pretty fast – this especially when working outdoors on uneven surface? And when they fall…

The point I don’t get in the promotion of strobe ads (and with your explanation as well) is the raving about flash duration. E.g. also the photo of your skier. You get him sharp with a high shutter speed (say 1250/sec is enough for an off piste skier). If filling in with a strobe has to be done: you use Hyper Sync (with PocketWizard Flex/Mini) and a Pro Head, former S Head and presto. The guy is tack sharp. The only limiting factor is the power of the strobe. With my cameras I tried up to 1/4000s. So why is fast flash duration needed at all? Just to do another photograph of the bullet shooting into an apple?
Perhaps I missed the point but I’m thinking of changing all my A-Flashheads into the slower ones – because they offer more options…

Thanks again for your post

Berni
Michael ClarkMarch 11, 2015 - 8:26 am
Stan – sounds like there is something wrong with your Quadra pack or the new batteries if they are lasting only 80 pops. I would send them into C.R.I.S. Camera, which is the Elinchrom certified repair shop in Arizona, and have then looked at. As for the new Li-ion batteries, they are awesome. It might be time to upgrade.
Michael ClarkMarch 11, 2015 - 8:34 am
Bernard –

Yes, the Profoto B1s are quite top heavy. I alluded to this in my review and a little bit in the comparison.

On the flash duration craze, when you are shooting indoors and want to stop motion it isn’t always possible to use Hypersync. Also, with Hypersync you are typically using a fast aperture, like f/4 to f/5.6. If you want to use a smaller aperture like f/8 to f/16 then in many cases you won’t be able to use Hypersync.Hypersync can also be difficult to get set up because you can’t use a light meter, so if you are building multi-strobe lighting it is very nice to be at or under the sync speed so you can balance the lighting a bit easier. With enough experience it can be done via Hypersync but it is just more complicated.

Also, there are many sports like Kayaking where things are moving so fast that to get the action tack sharp you would need a shutter speed of at least 1/1,500th second, which is certainly possible with Hypersync. For long distances, as noted in the comparison, I usually go for the Ranger packs with 1,100 Ws since I need the power to throw the light a good distance.I need to do more testing with Hypersync and the ELB 400 to really gauge how well it does in general. I might need to compare it to the Profoto HSS and see how they differ in real world use to complete this review.
Tony BonannoMarch 11, 2015 - 9:54 am
Well written and covers a lot of ground. If I’m in the market, I’ll probably be thinking seriously about the Elinchrom. Thanks for doing the comparison Michael. Very helpful.
Brent Allen ThaleMarch 11, 2015 - 10:01 am
Michael, thanks for taking the time to post this in-depth comparison, it’s helpful.

To play a little devil’s advocate, though, the Profoto B1/B2/Air TTL system is integrated pretty well with TTL, HSS, modern remote control, etc, all in one package. For the ELB 400, you have to decide if you want fast flash durations or Hypersync in advance, or purchase double the number of heads and swap them out when you need them. Plus to use Hypersync, you need PocketWizards which are expensive, require additional batteries, and are an additional point of failure. And although Hypersync can be nice in some situations, since it’s really a third-party hack there are no guarantees about even illumination of the frame, illumination from frame to frame, or color temperature.

One thing you didn’t mention is the built-in spill-kill reflector the Profotos have which on the surface seems to limit their usefulness for certain modifiers, it looks like the Quadra heads don’t have that issue.
Michael ClarkMarch 11, 2015 - 10:31 am
Brent –

You are right. To get all the features of the ELB 400 you do have to buy two heads and the PocketWizard set up. That definitely adds to the cost. The PocketWizards are about the same as the Air remote TTL or even cheaper but they are an extra expense. And the HSS and TTL working together in the B1 is very easy to use – easier to use than figuring out Hypersync which takes some testing to dial in. I haven’t had that many issues with uneven illumination of the frame when using Hypersync. I tend not to push it so I do have even illumination. I think that issue is a bit overblown. It works very well. And in terms of color temperature, I haven’t noticed it varying much at all.

I did test out the spill kill built-in reflector. That was my first major concern about the B1. But after testing it and comparing it to the ELB 400 heads and with my Ranger heads (both of which have the flash tube sticking out), I really didn’t find the light output that different or any different really when you have either in a softbox or a beauty dish. Hence, I don’t bring it up here since my testing didn’t show any noticeable difference.

Both units are very good. My review is slanted because of the types of images I produce as a sports photographer and my flash duration needs. If I were a wedding photographer, then this review might have been a little different.
John OnyskoMarch 11, 2015 - 4:43 pm
I have used a Ranger Quadra setup for years with a love/hate relationship. I now have two Profoto B1s and will never look back. You work for Elinchrom, so it is unfair for you state that you are unbiased, especially after this “comparison”. Allow me to point out a few things.

You use a standard marketing ploy to first complement all of the players in this arena. You then follow that up with a complement to Profoto for TTL and then write it off as an unnecessary feature. Slick. After that you spend paragraphs comparing the entire Profoto line (not just the B1s) to SB910s, but never do that for Elinchrom. Subconsciously you are attempting to have the reader think that the B1s are in a class with SB910s. Um, no.

Next you compare HSS vs. Hypersync, but you have never used HSS on the new B1s. Seriously? It works flawlessly and with ZERO setup. Write a blog post on how to set up Hypersync using PocketWizards. It’s one step shy of voodoo. Setting up hypersync in the field actually requires that the PocketWizards hang off of the sides of the Quadra head while being tenuously connected via 1/8″ audio cables! Hypersync takes up either one or both of the PocketWizard two configurations, actually requires two PocketWizards, and on and on. Here, Profoto takes the day.

You then compare the number of full power flashes and proclaim Elinchrom the winner. You should work for the government. If you dial down the B1 to Elinchrom’s max power, the number of flashes is about the same. That one was pretty slick.

Lastly, you use the word amateur twice when referring to the Profoto units. Again, pretty sly, but totally untrue and you know that.

Setup of the B1s is literally instant. There is ZERO configuration and the units work exactly as advertised. There are no power packs and hence, no cables. Moving around the Elinchroms was a beast for years. Moving the B1s around is cake.

I am not paid nor endorsed by any camera or lighting company. For me, the B1s are the winner by a landslide. For the sake of competition, I hope that Elinchrom fires back with something even remotely close!
Michael ClarkMarch 11, 2015 - 4:50 pm
I was waiting for a B1 user to write in. Thanks for your comments John. I didn’t mean to compare the SB-910s to the B4 except for the flash duration. The B4 is a stellar setup, but my aim was to debug the “marketing speak” on Profoto’s part with the flash duration. I don’t actually work for Elinchrom – I just get some gear from them, for free admittedly on occasion. I haven’t actually ever received any money from them.

Good to hear a user’s perspective who started with the Quadras an moved over to the B1s.
JH PhotoMarch 11, 2015 - 10:31 pm
I appreciate your input on the new quadra system, I am contemplating a pack system, as is at least one other guy I know but it probably won’t be elinchrom or profoto i’m fairly certain of that.

I own B1, not many because they are expensive but they are extremely well made, profoto did a lot of post release R&D debugging. The B1’s seem to be working very well. I’ve tried TTL based shots, they seem to do a fair job of it. HSS works excellent, I shoot with Nikon, the wait was worth it.

Saying that a field capable studio head is top heavy is just silly, of course it’s going to be heavy compared to head with no battery or electronics inside it. That being said, it’s not much heavier than an Einstein light.
Due to the fact that it’s got all that electronics built into the head, its inevitable that bouncing it off a boulder is going to have very a expensive downside. 😀

Portable field pack systems do have a purpose that they fill better than stuff like the B1, which is my motivation for investing in one for the future. Space savings, weight etc. I don’t regret buying the B1 at all. B1 is plug and play, hope the same for elinchrom.

Elinchrom continues to offer some very compelling options, I hope they continue to work on it. I’m considering Broncolor for my pack, Hensel has a really nice offering too with their Porty L that is in the same price range as the Quadra. My short list for choices, is Broncolor Move, Porty L and whatever I find to fit the third.

Cheers!
Luke SzeflinskiMarch 12, 2015 - 12:54 am
Grate review! But it would be the best all around with added to comparison Broncolor Move.
RVNMarch 12, 2015 - 1:09 am
i love both elinchrom quadra and profoto B1. in HSS/hyper sync application on both elc/B1, elinchrom quadra is the real winner because it can work with not only canon or nikon camera, but other camera who use leaf shutter camera (sony RX1, RX100, fuji X100 series, sigma DP, phase one, all) can use hyper sync ability, B1 can’t.
and i just realize that ELB400 can use pocket wizard or phottix trigger for hyper sync, so we have another option if we on budget.
http://www.theflashcentre.com/Elinchrom%20ELB%20400%20Pack.html?category_id=972

about battery profoto B1 had small and light weight battery but low capacity than elinchrom, but i like it because the battery easy to carry.
FrederikMarch 12, 2015 - 3:52 am
Nice piece, although I feel it’s a bit biased towards Elinchrom. First of all I do admit I have a relation with Profoto and like you they do send me some kit now and again.

I do have to agree with John on some points that you went a bit quick and borderline dismissive on the key feature of the Air TTL system being TTL and HSS. Having not even tried the latter.

I love the fact that I can use my B1’s with TTL or Manual if I choose to so. I shoot both commercial and editorial work and depending on the setup and the time available I can choose between them.

I this the HSS function is more interesting for me because I love to shoot wide open at 1.2 or 2.0 even in bright sunlight… and HSS allows me to do so.

If power is what you need Hypersync may be more effective but that will set you back another €400 and of course you can also use it on the B1 if you want to.

You dismiss the B2 very quickly als not powerful enough. have you actually used the unit? I have and 250 WS isn’t as useless and you think it is. It’s actually just one stop les powerful. Equalling turning down the power op your B1 500 down to 9. It’s smaller then the Quadra and both its ports are completely independent. You dismiss it as a copycat product. Although I see some visual resemblance. I think that saying this is a bride to far how else would you design a two head pack. Worth mentioning that the B2 head fits all Profoto modifiers without the need of an adapter.

If power is what you need Hypersync may be more effective but that will set you back another €400 and of course beause of the price of the PW’s. you can also use those on the B1 if you want to.

Profoto is working on Sony and Olympus remotes with hopefully other brands following soon.

… Not all just a marketing ploy. It actually works and I use it on a daily basis.

To end it although I’m biased as a long time profoto user I do love Elinchrom kit and think they make some good stuff and have use a lot of it in the past.
Nicolas MeunierMarch 12, 2015 - 4:45 am
RVN : B1 can PERFECTLY be used with leaf shutter camera. hypersync has no utility with leaf shutter.

I shoot with my B1 or B4 with leaf shutter camera like PhaseOne or Fuji X100S withour any problem.
Nicolas MeunierMarch 12, 2015 - 4:55 am
“In terms of recycling times”

The B1 is always charged completly (500J) and use only the power you ask it to deliver… that means if you select 50J, you can fire 10 flashs of 50J as fast as your camera can. And during this time (1sec if you shoot at 10 fps) the B1 will have recharge itself for something like 300J and will continue a bit to deliver 50J flash if you continue to shoot.
Meanwhile, with the Eli, you have to select 50J, wait to the capacitor to discharge to 50J, take a picture, wait to the capacitor to recycle the 50J… and so on.

By the way, it’s because of this capacity to use only a part of the power available and change instantly it’s power setting, that the B1 can do TTL… so yes you need a remote BUT also a flash that can do that. So, no, the EL400 will never be able to achieve TTL with a new remote.
Joris CasaerMarch 12, 2015 - 6:22 am
Hey Michael,

I bought the B1’s half a year ago. Doubted then between the quadra’s and the B1’s. The main motive to work with the Profoto B1’s is setup. They are plug and play… wait, without the plug. The most time consuming part is unfolding the tripods.

Moving them around is a breeze. Yes they are top heavy, but indoors that is not an issue. Outdoors you need to protect your heads with sand bags. Still prefer a properly heavy sandbag over a battery pack to stabilise the tripod.

If you want to be shooting in no time, then you go for the Profoto B1’s. That is the real choice. For most pro’s the TTL is not relevant. It’s like a pro camera with fully automatic function on the dial button.

As far as HSS: On the Profoto it’s just a push on a button and again, you’re shooting.

Good comparison, but you’ve only done half the math. Do yourself an honest favour: Get a pair of B1’s and put them to the test.

PS: The 100 Watts extra power of the B1’s can make just that difference shooting against the sun.
Nicolas MeunierMarch 12, 2015 - 6:44 am
A SB910 at full power has only a flash duration of 1/880s
at the same power the B4 in speed mode as a flash duration around 1/18000s. That’s the goal of a 10000$ Flash.

If you want the same flash duration with the SB910, you will have very very little power.

I have also a B1 and FujiX100S. B1 at 50J, I can shoot at 1/4000s. With the SB910 I will never have this power or flash duration at the same time.
Dimitris ServisMarch 12, 2015 - 8:10 am
Very well written and informative article. I am not in the market for either set, I am an amateur, happy with my Elinchrom home studio and only carrying a speedlight outside 🙂

I am more interested in the technique and I wonder why for your application you consider t.5 more important and not the tail of the distribution, wouldn’t that create undesirable effects? Also doesn’t the hypersync cause stripes and gradients for moving subjects?

Thanks
Michael ClarkMarch 12, 2015 - 8:26 am
Luke – the Broncolor Move is a great setup but in a different league than the B1 or the ELB 400, which is why I didn’t bring it up here.
Michael ClarkMarch 12, 2015 - 8:36 am
Frederik –

Thanks for your comments. You did bring up a very good point about the B1 being able to achieve Hypersync capabilities when using a PW ControlTL transceiver plugged into it. I forgot about that option. I have a feeling few will ever go to that length to get Hypersync. I am sure it would work quite well. I will have to add that fact into the main article as a possibility.When I tested the B1 there was no HSS option for Nikon, which is why I didn’t try that feature out.

I did use the B1 in TTL mode as stated in the article. TTL is a great option – I think I also said that in the article.

On the B2, my point was that two speedlights will give close to 200 Ws so why would someone buy a much more expensive system? I am sure they are cool – but they would have been much nicer if they were 500 Ws.

It seems many people have missed the issues that are key for me: fast flash duration at full power, weatherproof nature of the ELB 400 and a decent battery life (which both do ok in that department).
Michael ClarkMarch 12, 2015 - 8:36 am
Nicolas – Interesting note on how the B1 recharges. Thanks for this info.
Michael ClarkMarch 12, 2015 - 8:38 am
Boris – I did actually use the B1 before using this review. HSS wasn’t an option for Nikon when I tested the B1. I tired out the TTL with a Canon and the HSS hadn’t been introduced yet. If I really need to overpower the sun, I need more power in general and that is when I pull out the bigger packs – 1000 Ws or more.
Michael ClarkMarch 12, 2015 - 8:41 am
Dimitris – The t0.1 flash duration times would be much more informative but the manufacturers don’t tell us those so I had to go with the t0.5 flash durations for the comparisons. I haven’t had any issues with Hypersync and stripes or gradations.
DavidMarch 12, 2015 - 9:39 am
Interesting review, I have a full size Ranger AS Speed pack that i attempt to drag around but its so heavy dragging that and my camera gear around i’m getting back injuries so i’ve been looking at how to replace it. The options are few and far between, the Broncolor Move and Priolites came to mind, and obviously the B1 was a definite option, as you say in a comment above, not many people will use hypersync with the B1’s, but before HSS was incorporated and on day 1 the B1 became available I ran half way across switzerland to the Profoto dealer with my D3s and 2 TT5s to test the hypersync. Because of the way hypersync works, it only sync’d perfectly at 1/8000 at power 10 and power 9 and with a shutter speed of only 1/2000 at power 8. any lower then this (power 7) the flash duration was too quick and I got no sync even using 1/500.
I believe (but could be wrong) that the HSS implementation by Profoto has the same restriction, only useable at full power 10 and power 9 (maybe not even power 8) this means that the option of working only in the shade or from close by may not be that accurate because the flash will be near full power.
I decided that as much as I love the b1 because it “just worked” (my ranger never “just works” its always effort) I couldn’t afford to replace my Ranger at the time so that what i’m still using. I like the idea of the Quadra ELB, ie a nice update of the cool Quadra system, but if you could PLEASE use your Elinchrom contacts to tell them to get on with updating the full size Ranger into a Ranger ELC, a battery pack and head version of the awesome ELCs with lightweight lithium batteries, all of us longer distance shooting action sport photographers will be a lot better off because quite frankly thats EXACTLY what we need!!!!!!
Michael ClarkMarch 12, 2015 - 9:48 am
David – I am right there with you. Thanks for the info on the Hypersync with the B1. I too am patiently waiting for an upgrade to the Rangers. They are 10 years old at this point. Fingers crossed sometime soon they will see an upgrade. I used my Ragners 90% of the time and the Quadras only here and there because they aren’t powerful enough for most of what I shoot.
MichaelMarch 12, 2015 - 12:54 pm
I own a set of quadras and have been debating a switch to profoto since the release of the B2’s. For me it’s not so much about the technical differences between the two lights, as both perform very well. It’s more about a few practical issues:

Elinchrom Negatives

– The speed transmitter is awful in my opinion and well overdue for an update. Yes it’s small, light weight and does the job but the operation is fiddly and turning the modelling light on/off is hit and miss. Most of the time you end up accidentally adjusting the power setting whilst trying to turn it on/off. Never understood why these issues never got addressed during test usage and rectified prior to its release. Always amazes me how they sponsor so many excellent photographers and obviously don’t take product feedback seriously.

I just hope that when they do release an update it works with the older Quadra sets and its functionality is not limited/reduced.

– Not being able to see the power setting on the remote is really annoying, especially when a large number of cheaper competitor products have this feature.

– Different head specification. This could be seen as a positve as I appreciate it provides specific application choice but for me it’s just another potential GAS symptom.

– Having to buy additional brackets to support the extensive range of elinchrom modifiers. The brackets increase the weight of the heads considerably and are quite expensive for what they are. You also have to be careful about which modifier you use because of weight limitations. I personally had to modify my brackets for use with heavier modifiers.

– The range of specific Quadra head modifiers is small and hasn’t really changed that much since their release.

– 66/33 power ratio is quite limiting when you want to use just one pack. I would much prefer the ability to spit/choose the ratio myself. +1 for the Profoto B2’s here.

– You don’t get a protective cover with the flash head. Again this is an additional expense and when you consider most people would like to leave the elinchrom bracket on it becomes essential for travel. I appreciate you can remove the bracket and put the smaller reflector with diffuser panel back on, but to me this is just more faffing about during setup.

Profoto Positives (B1/B2)

– The heads don’t require any additional brackets to support profoto modifiers. Same modifiers fit all profoto heads.
– The flash tubes are protected to a degree by the frosted diffuser panel without the need to putt a protective reflector on/off.
– Good range of specific OCF modifiers off the bat.
– The TTL remote is a wet dream and a real example to all other manufacturers
– Power can be independently controlled for each head
– TTL functionality – Not a big issue for me but again this is nice to have.
– very lightweight
– 2 x B1’s combined with a B2 would be a great portable setup allowing you to use a boom arm for overhead or high angled shots and the B1’s on standard light stands.
– B1 modelling light power can be adjusted

Profoto Negatives

– Very expensive price point when you consider the competition. For me this is probably the biggest negative because most people who buy the Quadra’s will probably want to add a studio monobloc to their equipment list in the future and this is where Elinchrom have a serious advantage with a great range of very inexpensive options that all support the same wireless trigger system.

Profoto’s range of lights are considerably more expensive when compared like for like and this will definitely be a deciding factor for many people when they make that final decision on which lighting system to go with.

Just a few thoughts from me.
Michael ClarkMarch 12, 2015 - 1:14 pm
Michael – Excellent comments. Thanks for the notes. You can bet the folks at Elinchrom are reading this blog post and taking note of all these comments. They do listen to feedback. Profoto might even glance at this as well so hopefully both manufacturers will use these comments to improve and refine their already excellent products.
MikeMarch 12, 2015 - 2:30 pm
As an Elinchrom retailer i’m not going to express an opinion on either system, because unbiased debate is fantastic, an my opinion would of course be biased. But just to respond to a couple of points made by Michael above. At Photkina last year Elinchrom announced that there will soon be a protective head cap that fits on the heads without the need for the reflector. Hopefully we should see this in the coming months, and i’d be surprised if it wasn’t cheap, it’s just a piece of plastic after all. Secondly, the Quadra to EL Mount Adapter Mk II is now available which will allow the heads to attach to all Elinchrom accessories, including all the heaviest soft boxes. It’s great to see such interesting debate from both Quadra an B1 users, though and hopefully some of the major concerns (skyport, full sized ranger etc.) will be addressed by Elinchrom in due course.
Andy SchulzMarch 12, 2015 - 2:51 pm
Have you ever Heart of phottix indra 500. I dont know why all you bloggers Never Write about this interesting Product. System like the Quadra , IGBT technique, hss, ttl. And megaprice. Any clue why no comparison? http://Www.phottix.comcheers Andy photographer minich germany
Michael ClarkMarch 12, 2015 - 2:58 pm
Andy – I have heard of it but I have never seen one so I have not been able to use it to compare it….
MichaelMarch 12, 2015 - 4:03 pm
I just checked out the new Quadra to EL Mount Adapter Mk II and it’s currently retailing for around £80. Obviously this starts to get quite expensive when you need 2-3 of them.

I wish Elinchrom made the heads slightly bigger so you didn’t need an adapter. Again this is probably a personal thing but I’d prefer less bits n bobs to carry about especially with a system that’s aimed/designed at portability.

The indra 500’s do look really nice but the problem with a lot of these cheaper competitor products is that their kit just doesn’t get enough “air time/exposure” on the professional circuit. It takes a long time to become an established brand in this market and is difficult for the smaller less known companies to breakthrough as a real viable alternative to the big names. Any advantage they have usually gets absorbed into the next product release from the major brands.
RVNMarch 12, 2015 - 9:28 pm
to frederick

HSS and TTL on profoto B1 can’t work on sony or other camera because it air remote TTL C/N just can work only for canon and nikon, of course you can still use manual setting on profoto B1 with air remote sync to operate it but can’t in HSS and TTL.. and as far i know leaf shutter camera like sony RX1 can’t work in HSS mode,

i would love if profoto make TTL air remote for sony
andyschulzphotographyMarch 14, 2015 - 1:02 pm
Michael, quiet easy just get in touch with Phottix they send bloggers a unit no problem. why always showing the first rows:-)) there is even a phottix indra 360 and 500 to have. Its everywhere shown in the internet. So I see no Problem to feature it.
Michael ClarkMarch 14, 2015 - 1:23 pm
Andy – I am sure it is easy to get a unit to test but it is not one I would consider. Hence, that is why I didn’t test it.
Andy SchulzMarch 15, 2015 - 2:12 am
And why ? Mai thought this Blog is for photographers Looking for the Best Option in affordable Location Kit lighting. I would love to see a comparison of B1,quadra, Indra 500. The Indra has Hss , TTL, both AC And Accu in one light, no others have that, Okay it’s a new company , bowens mount, IGBT like profoto . It’s not this typical Chinese stuff in my opinion. But I have to test it also for more Infos.
Xoán San MartínMarch 26, 2015 - 7:05 pm
Hi Michael,

Excelent review, I may be on the wrong forum (because it seens like eveyone is a sports photographer) but you explain really well and I will take the opportunity to ask you.

I want to buy a kit of two strobes to do portrait, nude and dance photography indoors and outdoors.

Right now I’m using canon speedlights and available light for this.

I got two different Elinchrom kits for this and need your advise please:

a)The ELB 400, not sure if with Pro or action heads (or a mix of box, can I do that with a single battery or should I buy two?).

b)A kit of two ELC HD 1000 (on a first read it seens to beging more power, but do I really need it?).

*One important aspect to consider is that I will like to overpower the sun on some of the portraits and nudes.

Thanks in advance for your help and support.

Kind Regards,

Xoán.
Michael ClarkMarch 27, 2015 - 8:28 am
Xoan – Hard to say with what you are doing what you will need. The ELB 400 may not be enough power to overpower the sun depending on how far away the light will be from the subject. If you can get it close then you will have no problem overpowering the sun. For what you are doing, the Action Head will be a better fit. A Ranger RX Speed AS pack with two heads might be a better solution to your problem. If it were me I would get the ELC Pro HD 1000 Ws kit and then use a generator or an external battery to power those on location. If you need to put a flash head into a large octabank then a lighter flash head will be needed. Getting an ELB 400 and the ELC Pro HD would be a good combo as well. I recommend that you rent them first if you can. Hope this helps.
Xoán San MartínMarch 28, 2015 - 4:38 pm
Thanks for your answer Michael,

Yes having both (The ELB and the ELC) sounds like a great option but I could not afford both.

I’m considering buying the ELC + an external battery (but I had seen that it cost around 750 Euros (Godox), do you know a cheaper option for a battery capable of a 1000 watts strobe?

The ELB’s looks like easy to carry and fast to shoot with but also like easy to brake, do you think I got the wrong idea?

The ELC’s look a little more robust.

I had considered also the Ranger RX Speed AS pack as you also told me but someone told me they are old technology, do you think Elinchrom it’s going to update this? It could be a great option for me, more power and better build.

Again thanks for your help, support and patience.

Kind Regards,

Xoán.
Michael ClarkMarch 29, 2015 - 10:31 pm
Xoan – The ELB 400 is not as fragile as you might think. It is a great kit. The ELCs are nice as well and faster when plugged in. I haven’t used any batteries with those so I can’t necessarily recommend anything. I have heard of people using the Alien Bees batteries with the ELCs. It works but the strobes won’t fire really fast like they do when plugged in. As for the Rangers, I bet the Elinchrom folks are working on it but I don’t know when they will come out with a new option. If you got the ELCs you could always rent a little Honda 2000 Watt generator to use them outdoors. That isn’t a great options as it is heavier and loud but it would function well. Hope this helps.
Piotr SłopnickiApril 8, 2015 - 10:46 am
Thanks for a comparison 🙂
I would like to add, that for ppl who want to control the lights with full information visible on the screen close to camera (which Skyport doesn’t provide) there’s option to go with WiFi Skyport and control lights from iDevice. I use this set up both in studio and on location. Works a charm.
Piotr SłopnickiApril 8, 2015 - 2:52 pm
One more thing – Quadra is designed to be really small, portable pack, that’s why its heads have smaller modifier mount, this allows for head to be tiny. However, some of you were complainig it’s not compatible with standard EL mount, adapter is additional hassle, Profoto takes full range of accesories etc. Well, if adapter is such an issue, then you can give up a bit of portability and buy regular Ranger head, which has regular mount and is not that big, just not tiny, like Quadra heads. I see Profoto as having only one advantage, it being TTL, if one needs it (I don’t, I run all of my flashes in manual, Speedlites included). Everything else is a wash or Quadra/ELB400 is better.
RVNApril 14, 2015 - 10:08 pm
i hope elinchrom make improvement on their sky port so we can fully control modeling light button in one click button (not wait for hold 5 sec) and can see the power setting on sky port LCD like air remote profoto did.
ervanApril 17, 2015 - 2:07 am
great review clark, btw i want to ask, are this ELB400 can use continuous/burst shot on full power? or it have a limitation like recharge or delay when we want to take a continuous/burst shot on full power?

what powerful ELB400 or elinchrom pro HD 500/1000?

are this ELB400 have “delay mode” like elinchrom pro HD 500/1000?

thank you
Michael ClarkApril 17, 2015 - 10:49 am
Ervan – You cannot use continuous burst on full power. You have to use the lower power settings for that. You can however, use the Sequence setting and with there or four lights shoot at 4 or 5 fps. Not sure what you are asking there in the second questions. And yes, the ELB 400 does have a delay mode.
ervanApril 22, 2015 - 2:27 am
thank you very much for your respon sir 😀

when i use sequence mode/setting can i make it in full power?

are 10 fps on ELB400 just can make in lower power too? or we can make it in half power?

thank you sir 😀
Michael ClarkApril 22, 2015 - 8:29 am
Ervan – Yes, when you use sequence you are using multiple lights – so multiple setups. And the 10 fps is at the lower power settings – or at the lowest power settings. The ELC Pro HD strobes are faster for this type of thing if you need faster flashes.
Jon AllenMay 2, 2015 - 2:09 pm
Hi Michael. what a great post, really interesting to read views of other photographers, I,m currently trying to decide if I should buy the B1 or B2. I currently use the old quadra system, and for me its time to move on, why!, because Elinchrom have allowed other companies such as Profoto and phottix to lead the market. As a wedding and portrait photographer, I would like the choice of HSS and TTL and to take advantage of those facilities at an instant. The Skyport is well past its sell by date, compared the Phottix and Profoto, its not that reliable either, the switches are very poor, especially when your working in very low light situations. The main point that the B1 is very tempting is the ease if use, no cables no packs and it does exactly what it should do with very little effort. The phottix Indra 500 is ok, but it has long way to go before its worth a consideration. Profoto negative, Why should we have to buy a trigger which to me should be included, stupid, all they are doing is taking us for a ride.
Matt E-DMay 27, 2015 - 11:51 am
Hi Michael,

Great article but as others mentioned there seems to be some anti-Profoto bias. In particular:

-A few times you mentioned Hypersync as an advantage in favour of Elinchrom, however there is nothing stopping you from using PW TT5s on a Profoto system and gaining the same advantages. I have not used them with the B1/B2 but used them with D1s with great success. Looking at the specs for the B1/B2/B4 their good but not great durations in their upper power ranges should be well suited to getting a lot of light output in the 1/2000–>1/8000 shutter speed range with hypersync, if timed properly.

-Regarding your claims that you only need “a couple of speedlights” to match the B4 at its fastest flash duration, that isn’t entirely true… It is really hard to get true Ws equivalents for speedlights, but at best, using your claim of 100 Ws equivalency, at 1/32 power you would need 7 SB-910s to match the 24 Ws of the B4 at its fasted duration. Some claim speedlights are closer to 60 Ws, which if true means you would need a staggering 12 of them to match the B4. I don’t even want to see what such a mount would look like, not to mention the amount of batteries it would require. 7 SB-910s are still less than half the cost of the B4, but nowhere near your claims of 1/10th the cost, especially when you add the cost of the triggers you would need. (although if you’re Joe McNally, who is the only photographer that I know of that is likely to gang this many speedlights together, you’d be using CLS to trigger, of course).

-Also, in regards to your comment that “The B4 can’t really stop motion at all because of it’s long flash duration at the full power setting.” At full power the B4 delivers a very respectable t0.5 time of 1/2,400s, which increases to 1/5,500s by the time you get to 250 Ws, which compares very favourably (or beats) the ELB 400 that you praise throughout the article for its action-stopping ability at similar power levels.

I realize that this article is not about the B4, and that the B4 is not meant to go head to head with the ELB 400, but your negative comments against Profoto (in particular their marketing department) come across as slightly hypocritical to me.

Regards,

Matt
Michael ClarkMay 27, 2015 - 12:06 pm
Matt – Thanks for your comments here. I haven’t tried the B1s with Hypersync. But, as you said, it is possible. Good point. On the B4, I exaggerated a bit on the power output of the Speedlights at 1/32nd power but the point is that with a few Speedlights and tweaking the camera ISO settings slightly I could get the same image as the marketing image used for the B4 using Speedlights.My point was that one doesn’t need to spend $10K to get a super fast flash duration. Yes, at full power the B4 isn’t too far off from my Elinchrom Rangers. Having used the B4 a few times – that is a stellar unit, no doubt there. I don’t have anything against Profoto. Just having used the B1s for action stuff, they are not quite the panacea that everyone seems to make them out to be. They are certainly popular but leave a lot to be desired in my experience.
Matt E-DMay 27, 2015 - 12:07 pm
P.S. Sorry if the tone of my post was negative… I forgot to mention the part where I thank you for all the great information about the Elinchrom system. I am semi-invested in the Profoto system of modifiers and triggers but they don’t seem to offer what I am looking for in terms of a battery solution. The B2 is almost there but as you mentioned, it isn’t powerful enough. A pack/head system somewhere in between the B2 and B4 (with a price closer to the B2!) is what I am looking for. Elinchrom has a few options in this range that I am considering, so your thoughts are much appreciated!
Michael ClarkMay 27, 2015 - 12:10 pm
No worries Matt. It is good to get a lot of different perspectives on gear and many folks here have a lot more experience with Profoto gear than I do. Profoto makes awesome stuff and I have rented a wide range of their packs over the years. This article is also slanted towards a very particular type of work with very particular needs, which of course is not the case of most folks.
Matt E-DMay 27, 2015 - 12:28 pm
Thanks for the fast responses Michael. Cheers and keep up the great work.
JH PhotoMay 28, 2015 - 2:03 pm
Re Matt E-D:
Consider the newest Porty L at 1200 watt seconds with a huge range of triggering options (it has 3 different radio trigger units built in) that would allow you to trigger it with almost any of the main stream studio triggers it is also considerably smaller than the older Porty systems. Wide variety of heads to choose from for shooting with as well.

Re: Michael A few things about the B1 (w/profoto remote):
B1 in freeze mode DOES freeze action effortlessly, i’ve tested I posted a few shots in Flickr demonstrating it. I agree with Michael however, it’s not the cornucopia of photography that some would make it out to be. HSS as of the last firmware update works great on my D800E. The firmware upgrade process was a little troublesome however.

The bad: Some of the functions on the remote strangely enough, appear to not work when there is a line of sight issue but it still fires. I’ve not had the inclination to sit down and nail down exactly what the issue is with Profoto techs.

As of 2015 I travel everywhere by motorcycle, and while I can pack the B1 with me, it doesn’t leave much room for other stuff if I were to pack my camera and associated gear for a quick location shot somewhere in the boonies. The B1 is top heavy enough that since I can’t afford to waste space or weight on sandbags it now necessitates a third option.

Something like the Elinchrom may well be my answer for this purpose, since I already own a b1 with the remote, it’s sort of a toss up as to whether I want to buy into the B2 to avoid having to buy a new trigger system..
Michael AndrewMay 31, 2015 - 6:20 pm
It was interesting to read a somewhat thorough take on the portable strobe debate.

For me it was not as simple as power vs flash duration vs hss va hypersync.

The B1 is the only power plant on earth that can do what it does like a speed light does with one hand. That’s right, no case or shoulder strap or whatever cable singling off here and there. For me that’s a big deal. I fire my camera remotely while holding the mono in other areas of my scene. I could use any similarly weighted setup but at 500w I don’t really want to consider less powerful options as I can use the B1 for almost any other assignment in business.

I take your word in your point, if you shoot sports with strobes then the B1 is not the tool. You don’t give the cordless, on unit battery system, hss and ttl functionality and wide power range options of the b1 enough credit in my opinion.

So for anything but sports, get the B1.
Paul CraigJune 2, 2015 - 1:39 pm
Thanks for this article Michael it and people’s comments have been helpful.

I’m about to invest in a portable flash system and have found it a very hard decision. I often shoot wide open f2 sometimes 1.6 1.8.

For this hss may help me.

However when I used a b1 on recent test shoot the weight of it on a stand out on location in wind worried me! I often work on locations with no assistant And if i have one its to hold light behind subject backlight them .The idea of the elb s light head is great for these purposes.

Must admit cannot decide as yet but this read plus peoples comments has defo highlighted a few things and been helpful thank you! 🙂
RVNJune 3, 2015 - 1:27 am
mister, can i use elinchrom rotalux deep octa modifier on profoto B2 head? thank you
Michael ClarkJune 3, 2015 - 9:12 am
RVN – Just get the Elinchrom to Profoto adapter and I think you can use Elinchrom modifiers on any Profoto flash head.
Matt FranksJune 5, 2015 - 2:10 pm
Hi Michael, thanks for a detailed and informative comparison. I currently own 2 B1’s, and have to admit I might be what you described as an amateur that has been suckered in by Profoto’s marketing. I bought into the system as I wanted the best lights, so that I don’t have to upgrade at a later date (like I have time and time again with lenses!). I absolutely love the B1’s, for their simplicity and ease of setup. However, as you pointed out, they are very top heavy, and my assistant isn’t able to boom it over a subject.

So I am in the position of either adding a B2 into the mix, or selling up and investing in the Elinchrom system. I have been debating for weeks which way to go, and still haven’t decided.

The only downside of adding a B2 is cost and power, however, as i already have 2 B1’s, I don’t think I will have any trouble with only 250w/s. As far as I can tell, the B2 is marketed as a replacement for speedlights for wedding/event togs, and designed to be used along side the B1’s.

The quadras offer more power, and are cheaper, however I feel I would miss the Air System, as the Skyport sucks in comparisson.

It really is a tough decision, as I just keep thinking, ‘all that money for just 250w/s!’. However then I think ‘will the quadras be a bit rudimentary compared to the Profoto system’. Ah, decisions decisions!
Michael ClarkJune 6, 2015 - 10:14 am
Matt – Thanks for your comments. All good things to think about. The Skyports aren’t bad. I have never had issues with them. They may not have all the features of the Air TTL system but they work very well with the ELC 400 system. I guess it comes down to how much you depend on the TTL with the B1 system. If you don’t use it that much then i don’t think you would even see a difference using the Elinchrom ELB 400. The 400 is super light in terms of the flash heads and having an assistant hold them up over your subject or anywhere really is a breeze. Maybe rent some if you can and try them out…
Matt FranksJune 7, 2015 - 3:28 am
Michael – Thats a good point re: renting them. I think thats my best bet and compare the two side by side. I don’t often use the TTL on the B1 as they are pretty much too heavy to be moved about, but with the B2 at weddings I think the TTL will be very useful.
Petr KrenzelokJune 10, 2015 - 12:59 am
Late to the party, but I was thinking lately, about how to get ourselves outdoors. We are Elinchrom users, hence I might be biased, because you somehow consciously prefer your first choice 🙂 But – we are also looking into alternatives.

I have to conclude, that I have not much experience outdoors, and wew are now asked to do some weddings (we did few as a second photographers, to train). And here’s my experience:

– Most (really most) photographers don’t much care about any special equipment outdoors – speedlite and some reflector, and that’s it.

– I like strobes, though 🙂 So, first thing I did, was to get Elinchrom Skyport receiver for my 2x speedlites, plus reduction ring, so I can use Eli modifiers with the Speedlites. Well, it kind of works, but the light output is not strong enough (expectable) plus – few times I thought, that TTL might be handy.

– Then I start thinking about getting the Godox generator. You could use portable trolley for transport and get your studio lights with you and you have all that power, plus power for notebook, usb devices, etc. While you are not much portable, advantage is clear – you can use your regular studio equipment in places, where power is not available. And being outdoors, it is easy to face such situation.

– ELB 400 (or Quadras). Nice. What I like especially is the weight of the head – some 350g? Maybe it is about your shooting style, but 30% of our shoot is – using an assistant, instructing him/here to move closer, to the side, put the light higher, lower, handing the head + modifier in hands. Now B1 – come one, 3kg, really? Our regular older Eli RX 600 are 2.6 kg and I tried to hold them above the head and no, I am not Arnold Schwarzenegger, so after some 5-8 minutes I had really enough 🙂

– But – one of our studio photographers, Jana, says – there’s no time for all that hassle 🙂 Hence I once again scratched my head thinking – hell, why there’s no battery powered light, coming with TTL? 🙂 And now B1 does, and I am really confused! Good for off camera fill. Eli – please add TTL to your ELBs!

And then again – most weddings photographers here use speedlites at max, you can bounce it eventually (using Canon Speedlites with in built radio is a nightmare) … Please help me 🙂
john paulJuly 15, 2015 - 12:16 am
Michael,

Any thoughts on how well the ELB 400 would work for shooting architectural interiors?
Michael ClarkJuly 15, 2015 - 8:36 am
John – I’m sure it would work very well. it can be dialed way down if you only need a kiss of light. I am not an architectural photographer so I don’t know what your needs are but they are small and light and will fit into some tight spots.
JamesJuly 18, 2015 - 8:52 am
Hello,

Thank you for all of this in depth information & comparisons. I currently work in a studio using both profoto & elinchrom lighting, shooting no faster than 200th second. I don’t own these lights but enjoy using both brands.

I am looking for some advice to buy some outdoor location lighting that will sync with fast shutter speeds, mainly to allow shallow depth of field, over powering the sun with static portraits but also having the ability to capture fast movement such as sports & cycling at high power from a distance.

For personal & outdoor work I am using a few Nikon speed lights & some old youngnuo rf602 triggers. I like to work fully manual & I’m not interested at all in TTL lighting.

I am very interested in replacing this set up with the elinchrom ELB 400 pack with 2 heads, but I don’t understand if

A – I need the action heads for fast shutter speeds? And if so, will these work straight out of the box with sky ports?

Or B- I need to buy the pro heads and a third party trigger set to achieve hypersync?

All of the information on fast speed sync flash is very confusing. If someone could help explain the difference between the pro head and action head to me that would be much appreciated. Lastly, I am about to purchase the youngnuo 622 trigger set for my speedlights as they can give me fast shutter speeds. Does anybody know if this trigger set would also work with the elinchrom ELB 400 pro heads? Or should I just buy action heads?

Many thanks, confused photographer!
Michael ClarkJuly 20, 2015 - 5:05 pm
James – Thanks for the comment. Here goes on answers – at least what I can answer: 1) For Hypersync (i.e. using high shutter speeds) you will need to use the Elinchrom ELB400 “Pro” flash heads that have a longer flash duration. This is the big difference between the pro and the action flash heads – the flash duration is longer on the Pro heads compared to the super fast (i.e. short) flash duration on the Action heads. If you want to stop action at 1/200th second with a short flash duration you would want the “Action” flash heads. For Hypersync you want the Pro heads. 2) At this point, the only wireless system I know of that will trigger the ELB400 strobes in Hypersync mode is the PocketWizard ControlTL system with the Mini and Flex triggers for Canon and Nikon cameras. Hypersync only works with those two camera systems with that trigger. With the ELB400 setup for Hypersync you can reliably (with my Nikons) overpower daylight from about 20 feet away. If using the Elinchrom Ranger RX Speed AS battery-powered strobe and the Standard flash head you can overpower daylight from 50 to 60-feet away. 3) As for the Youngnuo 622 triggers, I have no experience with them. Hope this helps.

Check pout these link for more on Hypersync:

http://www.pocketwizard.com/inspirations/technology/hypersync_fpsync/

http://wiki.pocketwizard.com/index.php?title=HyperSync
JamesJuly 21, 2015 - 4:46 pm
Thank you so much for explaining Michael. I think i am starting to get my head around the difference between HSS & hypersync. I can definitely see the benefit to using hyper sync with the pocket wizards and pro heads. If i am going to invest a decent amount of money into a location lighting kit, then it would probably best i go for this option that will give me the most availability of shutter speeds and light power.

However, just to be sure, the part i am still unclear on. Can you use HSS with the action heads? or will they only sync at a maximum of 250th second? So in your table it lists the flash duration with action head as 1/2,800 or 1/4,000 with 2 action heads. does this mean that the action heads are freezing action due to a very fast burst of light and you’re not actually increasing your shutter speed above 250? or can you achieve high speeds sync but at a lower flash power than the hyper sync technology.

i’ve left the profoto b2 out of my questions because it seems that you loose flash power when using their HSS mode. I am most likely to be looking for the most flash power and fastest shutter speed for my money. i understand that this works due to the flash speed duration, but i am wondering if the action head might be a worthwhile compromise for what i’m looking to achieve.

Thanks for the help, James
Michael ClarkJuly 21, 2015 - 10:58 pm
The Elinchrom ELB400s do not have the option to do HSS (High-Speed-Sync). That is a feature of the Profoto B1 and B2 units. The only option with the ELB400 (and all Elinchrom strobes at this point) is Hypersync with the right flash heads.

With the action heads, yes you got it – you can only shoot at 1/250th sec or whatever your flash sync speed is for your camera. The flash head as you pointed out is creating a very short bursts of light: with action head as 1/2,800 or 1/4,000 with 2 action heads. Tis short burst of light effectively freezes the motion of you subject even though you are shooting at 1/250th sec shutter speed. Hypersync will not work if you are using the Action heads. Also, please note that Hypersync takes a lot of practice to figure out – it isn’t just a plug and play type deal.

Yes, with HSS you lose a lot of power, which is why the B1 and B2 are mostly aimed at portrait and wedding photographers. Ideally you would have both flash heads or at least one of each depending on what you shoot. I would suggest renting from borrowlenses.com or someone like that to figure out which is the best way to go.
DamienJuly 31, 2015 - 11:29 am
Hello everyone,

I’ve just exploaded my Jinbei 1200 Pro set. Whaouw an 800$ in a 1/1000s burst of capacitor explosion! It terrible how these chinese units are made don’t try to open one to see what is inside ! Well … even with small plastic poles the + and – can slightly touch themselfs and for sure in stressfull situations you will not easily recognize in which direction you put your battery pack which ends up by a nice smell of death…

Well now it’s time to choose an other brand. 1200Ws was pretty nice when shooting people jumping into the lake with flash at 10 meters. But comparable units are also heavy and very expensive (I’m probalby categorized in “amateur” as you said but was never a fan of HSS nor TTL). So the big question is wheter I’ll be disapointed by 400 or 500Ws units or I’ll try the jump. For me I’have to say that I like the B1 concept since it’s really like grab you pack and that’s hit. It seems that the B1 is not only 5s less to setup it’s really no more the my traditional “whoops I forgot the 5m extension wires” or “where did I put the 3.5mm jack to connect my PW to the unit” or when you get your assistant dressed with wires, battery, PW and many other equipment”. The drawback would probably be the weight of the B1. I would really fear not to have a solid enough pole the could simply break when you want to have mobile light with an assistant.
David SeeligAugust 17, 2015 - 8:08 pm
I have a ranger speed and you can buy a lithium battery to put in its battery shell case . It does work with the standard charger but do not overcharge google it. It recharges at full power at 3.4 secinds instead of 2.9 but loses 5 lbs of weight. it also lasts longer then the stnadard battery. I have two batteries ine standard one lithium makes the kit lighter and more versatile.
Michael ClarkAugust 18, 2015 - 10:02 am
David – I have done this with one of my batteries in my Ranger kit. I put a Lithium battery in the battery casing and it works but I think my ten year old Ranger is a bit fired after having used it for a few years now. I have been very careful not to leave it plugged in once it is done charging but still, popping off tons of full power flashes with the Lithium heats the ranger pack up quite hot. It is quite a bit lighter – 5 lbs lighter as you said – which is great.
AtholAugust 22, 2015 - 9:07 am
Hi Michael

You made a mistake with your calculations. You cannot combine 4 x 100W to get the equivalent of a 400W light and therefore cannot compare buying 4 speed lights with the cost of a single B1. It would probably take you 8 speed lights to get the equivalent of a 500W light source, even if they were 100W each. You lose light for every additional source you add. any equivalent light sources doubled give only 1.4 times the intensity of a single such source.
For x number of equivalent light sources, the resulting intensity is √x . (Ie, the square root of x.”)

I suggest you research this a little further.
Michael ClarkAugust 22, 2015 - 10:00 am
You are right: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/16320/does-adding-additional-strobes-cumulatively-add-to-the-flash-power

Sorry for the mistake. I will correct that in the article or make a note of it.
Michael ClarkAugust 23, 2015 - 10:40 am
Athol – I just ran a test comparing power output from one ELB 400 (400 Ws) and four Nikon SB-900 Speedlights. With three Speedlights set in Manual mode at full power I was able to get the same power output as one ELB 400 at full power. Hence, I stand by my statements on four Speedlights being equal in power to one ELB400. I used a light meter to measure the power output on both setups and from the same distance. I am not sure how the math works out but in use it seems fairly equivalent.
Matt FranksSeptember 10, 2015 - 2:02 am
Hi Michael, regarding the comparison you recently did of speedlights and your ELB’s… what zoom setting was the speed lights on? I’m sure you already know this but the zoom setting affects the output greatly. I recently compared my single SB900 zoomed to 200mm and my B1, and was very surprised to see the same output from both! However, when zoomed to 35mm to provide a similar angle of illumination as the B1, it was 3 stops under.
Michael ClarkSeptember 10, 2015 - 5:28 am
Matt – I don’t remember, I think I had them zoomed all the way out for max power and they were about sic feet away from the light meter. I am sure from farther or with the flatheads not zoomed it would not be the same result. But still it was enlightening.
TimSeptember 16, 2015 - 9:31 pm
Nice article. I really like the explanation and diagram of high speed sync! Thanks! One part I disagree with….you were wondering why someone would buy a B2 rather than 4 speed lights and the answer is simple….portability and recycle time. The only way to get a short recycle time on the speed lights is to hook up a battery pack. So if you have 4 speed lights hooked up to battery packs (so you’ll have the recycle time comparable to a B2) you have quite a mess compared to the B2. And not everyone needs the power and short flash duration you’re speaking of (freezing the motion of a skier in broad daylight) I think you should give the B2’s a little credit as they do have their place for many photographers, especially portrait photographers.
John McDermottOctober 4, 2015 - 8:04 pm
I have found the Hensel Porty 1200L to be the best thing out there for shooting action in daylight using Hypersync and PW’s. And Hensel are surely working on a lighter weight and lower-powered battery-powered option that will compete with the ELB400 and Profoto B1/B2. There is a a certain feel of solid quality to all the Hensel gear I have used. The others are good as well. But I feel that the Hensel gear is a bit more solid and feels better built.
victor baldizonNovember 10, 2015 - 1:08 pm
need to know what best betwem the two units
Michael ClarkNovember 10, 2015 - 6:06 pm
Did you read the blog post? The whole post tells which unit does what better than the other…I prefer the Elinchrom ELB400.
Jacek Hau-nerJanuary 3, 2016 - 11:31 am
Hey Michael,

thank you for this nice review. I’m not a professional photographer, but I’m searching for a flash (indoor/outdoor) to shoot people, etc.

Now, I’m comparing the Profoto B-Series with the ELB400 and the Phottix Indra500 flash and for the ELB400 there is a new Quadra HS Head and the EL-Skyport Plus HS Transmitter. Maybe you can extend your post with this option. When I’m right, HS is a better solution as HSS or Hypersync and it is no need for the Pocketwizzard, right? What do you think about this new head and the Transmitter?

best regards
Jacek
Michael ClarkJanuary 3, 2016 - 11:38 am
Jacek – I have written a lot about the new HS and Hi-Sync technology as I was one of the two photographers who shot the marketing materials for it. Check out the two blog posts I wrote that are on the Elinchrom website:

http://www.elinchrom.com/learn/hss-hs.html

and

http://www.elinchrom.com/reviews/SkyportPlusHS.html

Also, check out the latest issue of my Newsletter, which has a review of the Sjyport Plus HS:

http://www.michaelclarkphoto.com/files/summerfall_2015.pdf

My take is that the Hi-Sync is way more capable than the Profoto or Phottix options. And everything I stated in the article you read here still applies.
Jonas D.January 10, 2016 - 4:42 am
Hi Michael,

thank you for this detailed review.

I was woundering if you have some expiriance with using the A-Heads from Ranger RX and Quadra together with the HS functionalty. I know that elinchrom does recommend those heads to be combined with the new Skyport. However I have still an bunch of it and was thiking to give them a try even if they can just sync 1/600.
Did you do any tests with A-Heads?

Kind regards

Jonas
Michael ClarkJanuary 10, 2016 - 10:12 am
Jonas – The A Ranger heads have a very fast flash duration. I haven’t tried out that combo but I would be very surprised if you could get any HS functionality at all. I have tried the A head with the Rangers – just a different battery – with the PocketWizard ControlTL system and it would not go above my flash sync. Get the HS head for your Quadra if it is one of the later ones and you should be set.
Chicago PhotographerJanuary 28, 2016 - 5:14 pm
The one thing that I dislike about the Quadra system is the quality of the head and the mount that it uses to attach to a light stand. You need to buy the extra Elincrom mounting adapter as I have broken three of the mounts by tightening too much. The Quadra heads just feel cheap compared to the Profoto B2 heads. Both are great lights, and I only wish the B2 was 400 watts.
Michael ClarkFebruary 8, 2016 - 8:37 am
Jim – I hear you. I thought the Quadra heads felt cheap too but they have survived an incredible amount of abuse. I had a head hit the ground very hard right on the back of the head (on hard dirt) recently. It was attached to a 14 pound stand with 30 pounds of sandbags. It also had a Deep Octa softbox attached to it but the head squarely hit the ground. I picked it up thinking I was buying a new head and I was very surprised to find there wasn’t even a scratch on it and it worked just fine. I think it was because the head was so small that it sucked into the softbox and only had minimal impact, a larger Profoto head would not have survived that fall because it is very exposed. I too have broken a few of the mounts by over tightening them, it was an easy repair but something shouldn’t happen.
Mario MoschelSeptember 13, 2016 - 4:46 am
I am a big fan of Elinchrom. I own lots of their stuff like 3x BXRi heads, 4x D-Lites, 2x Ranger RX, 2 Ranger Quadras and uncounted modifiers and accessories.

All works very well, I really felt in love with the Quadras I often use.

But you know what? I think about a change over to Profoto B1 or B2 stuff.

Because of this: Every head and battery pack I own has a foil display and keyboard. On one of my BXRi, this foil is now broken after 2 years laying in the closet without using. I called the local Elinchrom distributor, they asked me to send the head in for repair that makes about 70 euros/100 dollars. I asked them to send me a foil for self repair – I mean there’s no risk of electric shock or something like that in replacing a sticking foil.
They told me that this wouldn’t be possible.
Second, I have four lead batteries for the Quadras and two lithium ones. One of the lithiums I got replaced some weeks after I bought it because of malfunction. This particular one died now – you may know it – laying in the closet for longer time, but frequently charged in the meantime.
Sadly, warranty is over for more than one year, so no replacement.

My conclusion: I think about selling all my Elinchrom stuff which is overkill anyway for my changing business and by some tough gear with real knobs and dials instead of those foil toy rubbish. Gear that lasts as long as I want to.
PerSeptember 21, 2016 - 7:08 am
Great post. But I have a question. if you use phase one camera, what will your recommendations be, when you want to use the HS head and hi-sync?
Michael ClarkSeptember 21, 2016 - 8:19 am
Per – I have a Hasselblad. With the leaf shutter you can shoot normally without Hi-Sync up to the top shutter speeds. Hence, when using the Phase One or Hasselblad cameras I use the Action head as the flash duration needs to be faster than the shutter speed you are shooting at. And I shoot in normal flash mode on the Skyport Plus HS. I do change the Skyport Plus HS over two Speed Mode but that is it. The HS head isn’t a good option for shooting with leaf shutters. I am not sure it works with Phase One’s non-leaf shutter lenses.
PerSeptember 21, 2016 - 10:13 am
Well I use both Canon and phase One. So I’m a little confused about what system to use and if I need 2 Skyport Plus HS when you have Canon and phase one?
Michael ClarkSeptember 21, 2016 - 10:20 am
You can use the Canon Skyport Plus HS on both. With the Canon, to do HS, you’ll want the HS heads (if using the ELB400) and use the Canon and Skyport Plus HS in Hi-Sync mode to get access to the higher shutter speeds. For the Phase One (with Leaf Shutter lenses) use the Skyport Plus HS in Speed Mode and with the Action heads (if using the ELB400). If you are using other Elinchrom strobes, like the ELC Pro HD you will have to experiment to see how well they do with the HS techniques. They should do fine with the Phase One.
PerSeptember 21, 2016 - 10:48 am
So I need 2 differentieret heads?

And the EL-Skyport Transmitter Plus HS for Canon Works fine with other camereas like phase then?
Michael ClarkSeptember 21, 2016 - 10:58 am
Yes, and Yes. Read this blog post for all the info: https://blog.michaelclarkphoto.com/?p=4590
PerSeptember 21, 2016 - 12:16 pm
So if I understand correctly buy the Action head for phase one and the HS head for the Canon. And it can be used together for shoot where i don’t need the HS. And then get the EL-Skyport Transmitter Plus HS for Canon to control everything on both cameras
Michael ClarkSeptember 21, 2016 - 12:19 pm
Per – You would use one head or the other, not both on the same shot. If you need more than one head then you need multiples of each flash head. If you want three lights using HS for the Canon then you need three HS heads. If you want three lights for the Phase, then you need three Action heads. If you only want to buy one head then get the Pro heads but realize the HS won’t be anywhere near as good as with the HS heads and the Pro heads don’t have the action stopping power of the Action heads. They are a compromise.
PerSeptember 21, 2016 - 1:04 pm
Yes I didn’t meant to use 2 different heads for HS but to use 2 heads when I dont need to
use hs. But can you buy a head alone or you can only buy them with a pack as that would be more expensive? I haven’t seen them without the pack?
ZacSeptember 27, 2016 - 7:41 am
Hi,

Hoping you can help me with this issue. I just bought the ELB 400 Hi-Sync to go kit and I can’t even get it to power on. The unit only seems to turn on with the battery charger plugged in – Am I missing something here?
Michael ClarkSeptember 27, 2016 - 8:43 am
Did you put the fuse into the battery and charge the battery?
Joseph BrothertonOctober 5, 2016 - 7:30 am
Hi Michael,

Do you think there will be a 1,000 watt version of the ELB400 coming out? I am considering buying the Ranger RX, but heard they are not great for hi sync.
Michael ClarkOctober 5, 2016 - 8:46 am
I hope so. I bet Elinchrom is working on it but I don’t know if or when it will be released.
VDM PhotographyOctober 11, 2016 - 10:17 am
Thank you much for such a detailed and fair review/comparison. I have and old Elinchrom Ranger Quadra set with 2 standard heads and I was thinking to buy myself another similar set even if it is a used one. I do not really need HS heads since I am doing portrait/fitness/glamour photography. I am more certain in buying myself another Quadra set after reading this awesome article now. I do not really get all this hype around super-expensive B1s now. Not even mentioning the Broncolor Siros L sets!!!
Johannes FeltenOctober 13, 2016 - 5:14 pm
A lot of interesting debates going on here and I’ll give my 2 cents worth here too:-)
My current equipment: I have 4 Elinchrom BX500Ri strobes for studio stuff along with various Rotalux modifiers and a big beauty dish, which are all fine for general studio applications, people, fashion, products, whatever, but I can probably achieve similar results with most other companies. The major difference would depend on the variety of light modifiers available for any given system.

The two areas which become interesting are:
1. Action freezing shots in the studio such as water splashes etc. where flash is the only light source and it needs to work fast.
2. Outdoor location photography where overpowering strong sunlight and using wide apertures is required.
In scenario 1 short flash duration speed is the name of the game. As far as I am aware until recently Broncolor had the fastest monolights until Profoto recently came out with the D2 monolight advertised as the fastest monolight in the world with the shortest flash duration of 1/63000 of a second, admittedly at its lowest power setting of 1 Ws (which makes this probably the most useless piece of information provided for a flash specs. Who ever uses 1 ws of power? WTF?) I have yet to see the specs for usable power outputs like 1/2, 1/4, 1/8. The best flash duration for Elinchrom’s top ELC Pro HD is 1/5000s so I presume the D2 will quite easily top that, although as I said, I have yet to see the appropriate specs. I’ll settle for 1/10000s at a practical working power setting and they’re mine! In any case, it seems that both Profoto and Broncolor outshine Elinchrom in having state of the art equipment. Do I have to mention that it took Elinchrom quite a while to come up with their EL Skyport HS transmitter? Could they not have done that before Profoto launched theirs? So, in conclusion to scenario 1 Profoto D2 is no. 1. Elinchrom is third place at best.
2. Going back to the outdoor scenario things get a lot more complicated because apart from the flash specifications themselves the actual handling also becomes an issue and I guess different photographers have different areas of applications which contribute to their choice of equipment. As for me, probably like most photographers, I started off with using speedlights with HSS functionality. In my case that means using 2 Nikon SB900 with pocket wizards. This actually works quite well for me in most cases, however I am looking to upgrade that substantially. What I dislike most about this is not even the actual power output but the hassle to set things up and the fragility of all the hotshoe connections involved, especially when moving to different locations.
Since I rarely have my flashes high up and basically just beyond head height the Profoto B1 has got to be the best option. No cables, nothing. A solid head holding any light modifier. You can separate head from tripod in an instant and move location. True, you can do that with an ELB 400 or a B2 but you do have that extra cable, 2 pieces and no solid handle to hold the head, even though it is lightweight. I’m not talking about having 2 heads on the same battery pack. I won’t even consider that as an option, having an even longer cable to trip over. Major pain…So, I’m not sure at all that even from a portability point of view it’s preferable to carry around 2 ELB 400 battery packs each with its separate head rather than just 2 B1’s.
Another factor to take into account is spare batteries. Admittedly the B1 battery has less juice than an ELB 400 battery pack but you can easily have one or even 2 spare B1 batteries which will extend your shooting capabilities tremendously. That’s still a lot less heavy than carrying an extra battery for the ELB 400. Can you really be sure that the ELB 400 will last you the entire photo shoot without a battery backup? If it’s an important shoot you can’t take that chance. So in the end having 2 ELB 400’s with spare batteries must be a lot more cumbersome than 2 B1’s with a couple of their batteries.

I’m not seriously considering the B2 as an option at all because it just doesn’t have enough juice, and since I already own Elinchrom modifiers I might as well go for the ELB 400 in the first place. No great news here from Profoto. To argue that the B2 is only one stop lower in power than the B1 as if that were insignificant is like persuading a guy who wants to buy a sports car to go for the 16 seconds 0-100m version rather than the 8 seconds one. It’s only a few seconds, right? Wow. Maybe Porsche will adopt that as a marketing strategy.
I try not to shoot at full power in order to have faster recycling times so if I start off with 500 ws and shoot at 1/2 or 1/4 power I still have enough power but if I start off with only 250…
Regarding safety, having a relatively large unit like the B1 high up on a stand is certainly not ideal and here it depends on how high. Holding the B1 on a hand held boom is not really a great idea so if that’s your intention perhaps look for another solution. In my case if the stand is heavy enough it should be OK. By the way, I never understood the reasoning of having light weight stands which are then loaded with lots of weights or sand bags. Why not set up a heavy stand like the Avenger A110 in the first place instead of carrying all that extra crap around? (or do you carry a shovel too and look for sand to fill up on location? Does anyone actually do that??)

HSS in B1 vs. HiSync in the ELB400, that’s an issue that needs to be addressed and which most people probably don’t take into consideration. Getting more power to light people from further away, especially any kind of sports action where you definitely want to have your flashes as far away as possible so they will survive to fire another day is certainly a valid point.
But most of my outdoor stuff is fashion and portraits, so how badly do I need it? Will I expand my vision if I have new possibilities? perhaps.

Despite all advantages and disadvantages of each set we’re talking about high quality lighting tools so I won’t compare them to much cheaper options like the GODOX AD360ii which is capable of HSS up to 1/8000s and with a price tag of 1/3 or so or less of any of the other options here. Sure, it has its limitations but not long ago this was not an existing option at all and now it’s here I’m sure many people will opt for this relatively superb value-for-money alternative.
Michael ClarkOctober 13, 2016 - 5:37 pm
Johannes – Nicely thought through. As for Scenario #1, I’d say yes, Broncolor has the fastest flash durations at super low power settings – or now I suppose the Profoto Pro-10 has even faster flash durations but for most folks stopping water splashes like that is pretty specialized. In terms of scenario #2, Elinchrom has the fastest flash durations at full power and the higher power settings and they blow the doors off Broncolor and Profoto in this realm. I don’t need 1/63,000th second at the lowest power setting. I need 1/3,000th second or faster flash duration at the highest power setting. That was my point in the comparison. The Profoto B1 is a great unit but not for what I do. Check out this link where I was shooting with the ELB400’s on a BMX shoot to see how powerful they are for action: https://blog.michaelclarkphoto.com/?p=4697
HarveyDecember 31, 2016 - 3:56 pm
Would it be possible for Elinchrom to provide us with the flash duration times for their flash units at the lowest power setting? All Elinchrom provides is the t.5 flash duration at maximum power. Some manufacturers of less expensive speed lights provide flash duration times for the entire power range, yet Elinchrom, which is a greater investment, fails to provide this basic information.

At the time being, I am reliant on the test data of other manufacturers (https://www.paulcbuff.com/e640.php). Please Elinchrom, don’t keep us in the dark on this. Thank you.
Per baggerJanuary 10, 2017 - 12:15 am
Hi Michael.

Do you know if there is a good quality of collapsible Beauty Dish like the profoto OCF Beauty Dish that fit the elinchrom elb 400? Itcould be with an adapter?;

I would be great if I could use all the withthe rest of the OCF Light Shaping Tools you get for the profoto b1 and b2?
Michael ClarkJanuary 10, 2017 - 12:18 am
I am pretty sure Chimera makes one that will fit Elinchrom – you just have to get the right speeding.
PerJanuary 10, 2017 - 12:46 pm
Hi Michael.

I asked Chimera if they did do make an adapter to fit the Profoto equipment to the elb 400 but they didn’t. They only make for their own equipment.

So could there be another way to fit Profoto equipment into the ELB 400?
Michael ClarkJanuary 10, 2017 - 1:16 pm
I don’t know of anyone that makes adapters like that. Elinchrom makes adapters for the other way around, i.e. Elinchrom modifiers to Profoto speeding. I thought you were asking about third party modifiers that can fit onto Elinchrom flash heads. Didn’t know you had a Profoto beauty dish you were trying to mount on an Elinchrom head. I’s say sell it and buy one that will work with your Elinchroms, unless you own both systems. The Elinchrom Beauty Dish is pretty nice. Hard to travel with but very nice.
PerJanuary 10, 2017 - 3:29 pm
Hi Michael.

I was looking to something light thats why all the Profoto OCF Light Shaping Tools was interesting. The metal beautydish is a pain to travel with.

So it’s botht a beautydish and some other ligh shaping tools that are lightfit and fit the elb 400
SandorJanuary 28, 2017 - 3:12 pm
Michael, there is no doubt that you creating fantastic images and know how to use strobe
lights for your advantage. But for years I did searched for the right strobe lights shooting
action in dark lit places, such as barrel races and bull rides in indoor arenas.
I tested and acquired tree different strobes in a pair and in the order of Speedotron Force
10, Hensel Porty1200 Speed., and Elinchrom 600 S/RX.. Now they just set in my closet.

The Speedotron were great high output lights, easy to reach out to 90 ft + with their 10”
sport reflector ,but the flash duration was slow.

The Hensel had fast flash duration but even at 1200 w/s was not enough power in an
arena and slow recycling time just would not cut it.

The Elinchrom 600’s were my favorites, light in weight, easy to set up out of harms way
and good enough recycling time and fast flash duration.

All of these stobes were dependent on power hook up, that sometime was not easy,
blowing the existing fuse on the ground.

The new ELB 400 seems promising for my type of action photography. That is if the
head can be installed on a camera bracket next to the camera and be able to shoot from
the “hip”. The photographer in some cases such as rough stock events must be flexible
and move fast as needed.

Again this extreme sport is different then others and I would like to know your take for
this application.
Michael ClarkJanuary 28, 2017 - 3:20 pm
Sandor – I would suggest that you rent the ELB 400 and try it out first. It might work great for that use but hard to say as I am not sure what exactly you need it to do.
PerJuly 5, 2017 - 2:41 am
Hi Michael.

I’m just getting ready to buy the ELB 400, but I have one last question.

I’m thinking to get one battery with 1 the action head and 1 HS head.

My question is if I shoot at night time or maybe studio and use the action head for main can I use the HS head for fill light at background or hair in studio?

Or will there be some problems with this setup or issues I have to be aware of?
PErJuly 5, 2017 - 2:52 am
And if I put a 10m cable for HS head for fill – would it still be possible to get enough power
Michael ClarkJuly 9, 2017 - 9:36 am
Per – I haven’t tried mixing heads. I don’t think that will work very well with the different flash durations. I use all action heads or all HS heads. I don’t mix them in the same image. As for the 10 M cable, I don’t know. Where can you get a ten meter cable?
Costas ConstantinouDecember 3, 2017 - 3:16 pm
Dear Michael,

Thanks for the informative posts. Could you please clarify in which instances would you prefer to use a short flash duration in order to freeze action rather than using HS.
Michael ClarkDecember 19, 2017 - 12:06 pm
Any time I am shooting at or below my cameras flash sync speed (i.e. 1/250th second or below) then I use a fast flash duration to freeze the motion.
CarlosSeptember 12, 2018 - 5:00 am
And now Profoto B10 added to the equation. This article is a must!